KD LEKIR: A Voyage to Hong Kong & South Korea (1990) - A Veteran's Notebook
Based on the personal logs of Navy Veteran Hj. Zulheimy Ma'amor.
In September 1990, after the Penang International Fleet Review, two ships, KD Lekir and KD Mahawangsa, were deployed for an overseas operational voyage that was supposed to go down a different route but ended up creating its own history.
Mission Overview: The Change of Course
Our original operational schedule was ambitious – a voyage to Hong Kong and Beijing, China. However, due to unavoidable circumstances while already at sea, plans had to change.
It was our Commanding Officer, Commander Noor Azman Hj Othman, who made the announcement onboard. The China leg was cancelled and replaced with a new destination: South Korea.
Timeline: September 1990
Ships Involved: KD Lekir & KD Mahawangsa
Leg 1: Hong Kong - The Last Years of a British Colony
When we arrived, Hong Kong was still a British colony, seven years before its historic handover to the People's Republic of China on July 1, 1997.
Hong Kong, a highly developed city, is home to an estimated 7.59 million residents. The historical heart of the territory where British forces first landed in 1841.
On July 1, 1997, the U.K. transferred sovereignty back to China under the "one country, two systems" framework.
Berthing at HMS Tamar
Both Malaysian vessels berthed at HMS Tamar, the Royal Navy's base in Hong Kong. This historic base had served Britain from 1897 until 1997, taking its name from an early temporary warship before permanent buildings were erected. At the time, the iconic Prince of Wales Building (completed in 1978) dominated the base. The base itself would be decommissioned on April 11, 1997.
HMA Tamar Basin: KD Lekir and KD Mahawangsa alongside the basin. HMS Charybdis (F87), a Leander-class frigate, leaving HMS Tamar with Tug Assistance.
A memorable moment at the HMS Tamar Junior Rate Club. We were welcomed at the Junior Rate Club by female Navy personnel from HMS Tamar. The photo shows two Royal Malaysian Navy sailors from KD Lekir with a Royal Navy Wren from HMS Tamar during the September 1990 goodwill visit. The cap tally "HMS TAMAR" and the crest on the wall are clearly visible — a slice of history just 7 years before the handover.
Shore Leave: Tsim Sha Tsui and a Piece of Islamic History
During shore leave, we explored Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) – the bustling cape town at the southern tip of the Kowloon Peninsula, facing Victoria Harbour. It was, and still is, a major tourism hub.
With my nephew LK1 PPP Abdul Halim from KD Mahawangsa
Nathan Road, known as the Golden Mile, is located 3.6 km north-south from the artery through Kowloon Peninsula, from Salisbury Road at the harbourfront in Tsim Sha Tsui.
A significant stop was the Kowloon Mosque & Islamic Centre, located between Nathan Road and Haiphong Road, with a capacity of around 2,000 worshippers.
I learned that its history is deeply tied to the military. It was first built in 1896 for Muslim Indian soldiers serving in the British Army, originally located at the present-day TST Police Station site. It was rebuilt in 1984 at its current location on Nathan Road, funded by the community and compensation paid by the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) Corporation for structural damage caused by subway construction.
Islam in Hong Kong itself traces back to the arrival of the British Indian Brigade, with the oldest mosque being the Jamia Mosque, built as early as 1840.
Victoria Peak, also called "The Peak", is the highest hill on Hong Kong Island, 552 m above sea level, in the Central & Western District. Victoria Peak was the Sunday off-day meeting point for many Filipino workers in Hong Kong. They would gather on benches along the Peak Road, Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, after church. Hong Kong had a large Filipino community working as domestic helpers even then.
Leg 2: South Korea - From Incheon to Seoul
From Hong Kong, we crossed over to Incheon, South Korea's third largest city and main seaport. Located in Northwestern South Korea, bordering Seoul and Gyeonggi Province, on the Yellow Sea – about 30 km southwest of Seoul. Incheon was opened in 1883.
Port of Entry: Incheon
We docked at the South Korean Naval Base in Incheon and served as the HQ for the Incheon Naval Sector Defence Command under the Republic of Korea Navy (ROKN). It was also the primary homeport for the ROKN 2nd Fleet. Serving the frontline defence against maritime incursions near the Northern Limit Line and heavily utilising a fleet of Chamsuri-class patrol boats and Pohang-class corvettes.
Incheon is not just a port; it is a page of military history. I noted in my log about Pohang Beach in Incheon, where on September 15, 1950, General Douglas MacArthur led the historic landing of 75,000 American troops and 261 warships during the Korean War.
For KD Mahawangsa, the 1990 voyage to South Korea was a return to its country of origin, as KD Mahawangsa was built in South Korea by Hyundai Heavy Industries and commissioned into the RMN in 1983.
Exploring the Capital: Seoul
Seoul is the capital and largest city of South Korea, and it is also one of the largest cities in the world, with a population exceeding 20 million people.
Located within the Seoul Capital Area are four UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Changdeokgung, Hwaseong Fortress, Jongmyo Shrine, and the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty. Seoul also previously hosted the 1988 Summer Olympic Games.
We had the opportunity to explore Seoul, a city where history and modernity collide.
1. Gyeongbokgung Palace (Kyongbokkung):
Built in 1394 during the 3rd year of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), this 40-acre palace is a grand symbol of Korea. Although it originally had 200 buildings, Japanese invasions at the end of the 16th century destroyed most of it, leaving only 10 structures. The complex also houses the National Folk Museum, which opened in 1975.
2. Seoul Tower (Namsan Tower):
Standing at 479.7 metres above sea level, this communication and observation tower was built in 1969 on Mount Namsan. It remains an unmistakable landmark of the city.
In 1990, South Korea was just after the 1988 Seoul Olympics boom. Incheon and Seoul port bars / restaurants were where sailors, US servicemen from nearby bases, and locals mixed. Areas around Incheon Port and Itaewon, Seoul, were known for that.
Korean women that I met then were often working in hospitality, restaurants, or shops around the port areas. Many were very hospitable and curious about foreign sailors — English was basic but very friendly, as you see in my photos. And it was before the K-Pop/K-Drama global wave.
A Sailor's Reflection
Two personal moments made this voyage unforgettable.
First, while walking in Tsim Sha Tsui, I unexpectedly bumped into my own nephew, LK1 PPP Abdul Halim, who was serving aboard our sister ship, KD Mahawangsa. We had previously served together on KD Sri Negeri Sembilan back in 1987. To meet family thousands of miles from home, in a foreign port, is a memory only a sailor would understand.
Second, this voyage reaffirmed what it means to serve in the Royal Malaysian Navy. It is a career that offers a life rich with experience – a chance to travel and explore the world without personal financial burden.
As we sailors always say, "Today here, tomorrow there, and the day after, who knows where?" A career in the Navy offers a life rich with experiences, allowing personnel to travel and explore foreign lands extensively without financial burden.
Note: I went back to South Korea in 2005 on Christmas Eve – 15 years after those 1990 photos in Incheon and Seoul. It was a completely different Korea then.
After the 2002 World Cup, new highways, subway extensions and Songdo City in Incheon just started to rise from reclaimed land. Incheon International Airport, which opened in 2001, was already one of Asia's main hubs.
The port that I knew in 1990 – the small bars around Incheon Inner Port where I met friends – by 2005 most had moved or been redeveloped into container terminals and tourist zones.
A voyage to Hong Kong and South Korea is quite an experience, filled with rich cultural encounters and historical significance.
From the bustling streets of Hong Kong, where the blend of East meets West creates a vibrant atmosphere, to the dynamic cityscape of Seoul, each destination offers a unique glimpse into the heart of Asia.
In Hong Kong, the iconic skyline and the historical sites, such as the Kowloon Mosque, remind us of the city's colonial past and its evolution into a modern metropolis. The warmth of the local people and the delicious street food add to the charm, making every moment memorable.
Transitioning to South Korea, the contrast is striking yet fascinating. Incheon, with its naval history, serves as a gateway to Seoul, where ancient palaces like Gyeongbokgung stand proudly amidst contemporary architecture. The energy of the city, especially post-1988 Olympics, showcases a nation that has embraced modernisation while honouring its traditions.
This journey not only broadens horizons but also deepens appreciation for the diverse cultures and histories that shape our world. Each port of call leaves an indelible mark, reminding us of the beauty of exploration and the connections we forge along the way.
Hj. Zulheimy Ma'amor
Lembah Keramat, K.L.
Written: 5 June 2026, 3:08 a.m.
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