Monday, 19 October 2026

ISLAMIC HISTORY : BATTLE OF YARMOUK


The Battle of Yarmouk (Yarmuk) — August 15-20, 636 AD — is considered one of the most decisive battles in world history. It ended 700 years of Roman-Byzantine rule in Syria and the Levant and opened the Middle East to the Rashidun Caliphate.

The Basics

When: 15–20 August 636 AD — fought over 6 days

Where: Near the Yarmouk River, a tributary of the Jordan River, on what is today the tri-border of Syria, Jordan, and Israel / Golan Heights — east of the Sea of Galilee. A rocky plateau cut by deep wadis and gullies, with only one good crossing — a bridge over the ravines.

Who: 
  • Byzantine Empire and Arab Christian allies (Ghassanids, Tanukhids)
  • Rashidun Caliphate
Commanders: 
  • Byzantines: Emperor Heraclius in Constantinople directed the campaign. In the field — Armenian General Vahan, plus Theodore Trithyrius (Sakellarios), Buccinator, Gregory, and Jabalah ibn al-Aiham of the Ghassanids
  • Muslims: Overall commander Abu Ubaidah ibn al-Jarrah, with field command given to Khalid ibn al-Walid — known as Saifullah, "Sword of God
Strength:
Modern historians estimate very different numbers from mediaeval chronicles: 
  • Byzantine: 50,000 - 100,000+ (some older sources say up to 150,000)
  • Rashidun: 20,000 - 40,000
Despite being outnumbered at least 2-to-1, the Muslims won decisively.

Why It Happened
By 634, the Byzantines had just survived a devastating 26-year war against Sassanid Persia. Emperor Heraclius had won brilliantly in 628, but the treasury was empty and the army exhausted.

At the same time, Arab tribes united under Islam had taken Arabia and began raiding Syria and Palestine. After Muslim victories at Ajnadayn (634) and Fahl, Heraclius realised this was not a raid but an invasion. He assembled a massive coalition army from across the empire — Anatolians, Armenians, Arabs, and his elite imperial guard — to crush the Muslim forces once and for all.

The Muslims, who had been operating in smaller columns, merged all their forces in the Yarmouk Valley to force one decisive battle.

How the Battle Unfolded — 6 Days
Both sides formed up in four divisions. The Byzantines anchored their line on heavy infantry with cavalry behind; Khalid did the same but kept a powerful mobile cavalry reserve in the centre rear under his own command.

The armies stared at each other for months before fighting. Then:
  • Day 1: Champions duelled in single combat — Arab tradition. Skirmishing along the line.
  • Day 2-3: Vahan tried to envelop the Muslims, attacking hard on the flanks. The Byzantine right and left pushed the Muslim wings back into their own camps. There, according to Arab sources, Muslim women — like Hind bint Utbah — drove the retreating men back with tent poles, stones, and shaming songs. Khalid then committed his cavalry reserve first to the right, then to the left, restoring the line by nightfall.
  • Day 4: Another Byzantine general assault. This time their cavalry and infantry lost coordination. Khalid exploited the gap and seized the northern high ground.
  • Day 5: Vahan asked for a truce. Khalid refused. During the pause, Khalid massed all his remaining cavalry into a single strike corps — about 8,000 horsemen.
  • Day 6 — The Rout: At dawn, Khalid launched infantry along the whole line, while his massed cavalry swept around the northern end and smashed into the Byzantine left flank.
As the Byzantines fell back, they were funnelled into a narrow peninsula between the Yarmouk ravine and the Wadi ar-Ruqqad. A small detachment under Zarrar ibn al-Azwar had already seized the bridge over Wadi ar-Ruqqad — the only good escape route. Trapped, exhausted, and in disarray, the Byzantine army collapsed. Panic turned retreat into a slaughter.

Why the Byzantines Lost
  1. Khalid's tactics: Classic use of mobile light cavalry to blunt attacks and then deliver a concentrated flank blow.
  2. Cohesion vs. Division: The Muslim army was highly motivated and unified. The Byzantine coalition suffered command rivalries and the defection of Ghassanid Arabs mid-battle.
  3. Geography: Vahan camped with ravines at his back. Once the bridge was lost, there was nowhere to go.
  4. Exhaustion: The empire was bankrupt and religiously divided after the Persian War, with Monophysite populations in Syria less loyal to Constantinople.
Aftermath
Yarmouk was not just a tactical win — it was strategic annihilation.

After Yarmouk, Byzantium made no serious attempt to retake Syria. Damascus fell again, Antioch in 636, Jerusalem in 637, all of Syria and Palestine by 640, and Egypt by 642 under Amr ibn al-As.

For Byzantium, it lost its richest provinces — the grain of Egypt, the silk of Syria, and the trade of the Levant — and shrank from a Mediterranean empire into an Anatolian-Balkan Greek state that would survive another 800 years behind the walls of Constantinople.

For the Islamic world, Yarmouk and its sister battle al-Qadisiyyah against Persia in the same year (636) drew the map of the modern Middle East: until then, Greco-Roman and Persian-Zoroastrian; after that, predominantly Arabic-speaking and Muslim.

Military historians still study Yarmouk as a masterpiece of defensive resilience followed by a single decisive offensive — holding with infantry, winning with cavalry.

A MARTYRED
At Yarmouk there were about 1,000 Sahaba present, according to Ibn Ishaq — including 100 veterans of Badr. The total Muslim shuhada at Yarmouk is reported as about 3,000.

Most famous among the Sahaba martyred are the group of Banu Makhzum who died together, remembered in the story of Ithar (preferring others over oneself):

The 3 who died thirsty
After the battle, three wounded Mujahideen were lying on the field:

1. Ikrimah ibn Abi Jahl (RA)
2. Al-Harith ibn Hisham (RA) — uncle of Ikrimah, brother of Abu Jahl
3. Ayyash ibn Abi Rabiah (RA)

Al-Harith asked for water. When it was brought, Ayyash looked at him. Al-Harith said, "Give it to Ayyash." By the time they got to Ayyash, he had breathed his last. When they returned to al-Harith and Ikrimah, they found they too had passed away. All were martyred before drinking the water.

Ikrimah's story is especially remembered — he was the son of Abu Jahl, Pharaoh of this Ummah, who became one of Islam's fiercest warriors after accepting Islam at the Conquest of Makkah. On Day 6 of Yarmouk, after the Muslim lines had wavered, he is reported to have shouted for men to pledge death and charged with 400 horsemen deep into the Byzantine lines.

Other prominent Sahaba martyred at Yarmouk

Classical sources list:
  • Suhayl ibn Amr (RA)—the famous orator of Quraysh, negotiator of Hudaybiyyah. Al-Mada'ini reported that Suhayl died as a martyr in the Battle of Yarmuk.
  • Abu Jandal ibn Suhayl (RA) — his son, who had been tortured in Makkah and escaped to join the Muslims. He is reported by Ibn Sa'd to have been martyred at Yarmouk alongside his brother Abdullah.
  • Abdullah ibn Suhayl (RA) — brother of Abu Jandal.
  • Salama ibn Hisham (RA)—brother of Al-Harith ibn Hisham.
  • Amr ibn Ikrimah ibn Abi Jahl (RA) — son of Ikrimah, martyred on the same field as his father.
  • Hisham ibn al-As (RA) — brother of Amr ibn al-As.
  • Dhirar ibn al-Azwar (RA) — according to some reports, the elite cavalryman who blocked the Byzantine retreat at Yarmouk. Other reports place his death later at Yamama or in the plague of Amwas.
Many other companions from Quraysh and Ansar were martyred, but these names from Banu Makhzum and Banu Amir are the ones most frequently cited in Seerah books because their families lost multiple martyrs in one battle — a family that had once been the hardest enemy of Islam became among its greatest sacrifices.

The survivors present included Abu Ubaidah ibn al-Jarrah, Khalid ibn al-Walid, Amr ibn al-As, Abu Sufyan and his wife Hind bint Utbah, Sa'id ibn Zayd, Abdullah ibn Umar, Abu Hurairah, Ammar ibn Yasir, Miqdad, Abu Dharr al-Ghifari and others.

WOMEN'S INVOLVEMENT

Women played a very direct role at Yarmouk. It was not just men on the front line.

The Muslim army placed its camp directly behind the battle lines, and the families were in those camps. When the Byzantine wings broke through on Days 2 and 3, the retreating Muslim infantry fell back into the camps — and were met by their wives and mothers.

The general role of women

Historians like al-Waqidi in Futuh al-Sham describe: 
  • Women stood behind the army with tent poles in their hands and stones piled ready.
  • They collected stones, brought water, tended wounded, beat drums, and sang Rajaz poetry to encourage the men.
  • When men fled, they shamed them: "Where are you going? You will not find refuge with us!" and physically drove them back to the line with poles. This rallying is credited with saving the Muslim wings on Day 2.
Waqidi also notes many women from the tribes of Lakhm, Judham, and Kholan took part.

Famous Sahabiyat at Yarmouk
1. Hind bint Utbah (RA) — wife of Abu Sufyan, mother of Muawiya.
Already in her 50s at Yarmouk. Sunni sources praise her military role under Umar. She was in the camp, encouraging, singing:
"Cut the limbs of these barbarians with your swords" and beating retreating men back into battle.

2. Umm Hakim bint al-Harith ibn Hisham (RA) — wife of Ikrimah ibn Abi Jahl, and one of the most celebrated.
Her story: Ikrimah was martyred at Yarmouk. On the same day, she married Khalid ibn Sa'id ibn al-As (RA) — her walimah was that night in the camp. The next morning, Byzantine soldiers surrounded her wedding tent. Still in her bridal dress, she pulled out the tent pole (amud al-khaimah) and killed seven Byzantine soldiers by herself.

After Khalid ibn Sa'id was martyred that day, the place was named Qantarat Umm Hakim — the Bridge of Umm Hakim. She later married Umar ibn al-Khattab (RA) and bore him a daughter Fatima.

3. Khawla bint al-Azwar (RA) — daughter of Azwar al-Asadi, sister of the cavalry commander Dhirar.

She is famous for fighting disguised in black armour. At Yarmouk: 
  • On the 4th day, one of the hardest days for Muslims, she led a group of women against the Byzantine army, killed several fighters, and was wounded fighting a Greek soldier.
  • She fought side by side with her brother Dhirar in many battles including Yarmouk
  • Other reports say she was captured by Byzantines and escaped, and her fierce counterattack turned the tide.
4. Others mentioned:
Khawla bint Tha'labah? 
  • No — Khawla bint al-Azwar, Umm Aban bint Utbah, Afra bint Ghifar — Al-Hidayah research notes Khawla killed five infidels on one occasion, Afra killed four, and Umm Hakim and Umm Iban were narrated in Futuh al-Sham for their bravery.
So at Yarmouk, women were not just supporters — they were the last line of defense, nurses, motivators, and in the cases of Umm Hakim and Khawla, front-line fighters who killed Byzantine soldiers with tent poles and swords.

Hj Zulheimy Maamor
19 October 2026: 4:13 a.m.

MY PHOTO: HISTORIC AND INTERESTING PLACES (SABAH)

CROCKER RANGE
Taman Banjaran Crocker in Malay, a mountain range that divides Sabah's West Coast (Kota Kinabalu and Papar) from the interior (Tambunan, Keningau and Tenom). 
The road that we used from Kota Kinabalu to Keningau: KK > Papar > Kimanis > Crocker Range > Keningau. It's the steepest highway in Malaysia with spectacular views. It was upgraded and opened as a highway in 2006. 


KOTA KINABALU
The Capital of Sabah, formerly known as Jesselton. Located on the northwest coast of Borneo, facing the South China Sea. It is named after Mount Kinabalu, which is situated about 50 km east-northeast of the city. 


Top Left / Right – Waterfront, the jetty and harbour in Kota Kinabalu
Bottom Left - Suria Sabah shopping complex where we had our event. 
Bottom right - Masjid Negeri Kota Kinabalu with the distinctive gold patterned dome and 16 small golden domes with palm trees in front.


Best Western Kinabalu Daya Hotel, where I and my colleague stayed during our event at Kota Kinabalu in 2013, just a walking distance to Suria Sabah Shopping Complex for our Health Screening Programme. 

Graceville Condo, where my brother, who is a manager at Sime Bank Kota Kinabalu, stayed with his family. Located at Jalan Pantai Sembulan, Kota Kinabalu is where we stayed during our visit to Kota Kinabalu in 1997. 
Sime Bank was originally UMBC (United Malayan Banking Corporation), Malaysia's first commercial bank. By 1996 it became part of Sime Darby and was renamed Sime Bank. 


THE DOUBLE SIX TRAGEDY
An air crash involving a GAF-N-22B Nomad of Sabah Air, which took place on 6 June 1976 at Kota Kinabalu, killing 11 people onboard, including several local political leaders, the Chief Minister of Sabah, Tun Fuad Stephens, and Datuk Peter Mojuntin.

Tun Fuad Stephens, @ Donald Stephens, and the Double Six Memorial Monument, located next to Graceville, are just 2-3 minutes' walk from my brother's house. 

TANJUNG ARU BEACH
About 6 km from Kota Kinabalu city centre, named for the Aru trees lining it, as in the photo. Also known as the best sunset spot in KK. Local picnic beach, not a tourist-only beach. 


WARISAN SABAH / MUZIUM SABAH
Pusat Warisan Tumbuhan Sabah, the Ethnobotanical Garden, is part of the Sabah Museum Complex, a 17-hectare site at Bukit Istana Lama, Kota Kinabalu. 
In 1997, the museum was in its main growth phase; the original museum started in a Gaya Street shophouse on 15 July 1965, then moved to this bigger Bukit Istana Lama site. 



TAMAN AIR PANAS PORING
Located 136 km from Kota Kinabalu, 40 km from Kinabalu Park HQ. 'Poring' comes from Kadazan dusun - a local bamboo species that grows here. 
The hot sulphur springs were first noticed and used by the Japanese during WWII occupation of Sabah. It was formally developed as a visitor facility in the 1960s. The water is naturally hot, sulphurous, and believed to be therapeutic – same then and now.


PONDOK TIMPOHON
Also known as Timpohon Gate, it is the main starting point for climbing Mount Kinabalu, 5 km from the Kinabalu Park HQ entrance. 
There are 7 pondok along the summit trail; Timpohon is Pondok #1 at 0 km. 
In 1997, Mount Kinabalu was resurveyed with satellite technology – the height was corrected from 4,101 m to 4,095 m (Low's Peak).


PETAGAS MEMORIAL GARDEN
Located at Petagas, Putatan, just south of KK, near Putatan Airport, on Jalan Kepayan. It is a WWII memorial for the Kinabalu Guerillas, also called the Double Tenth Revolt. 176 members led by Albert Kwok planned an uprising against Japanese occupation on 10 October 1943. 
13 leaders and many others were executed by the Japanese at this spot on 21 January 1944. The park marks the exact execution site. 


KG. NABALU, KUNDASANG
OTW to Kundasang; stop by at Kg. Nabalu is a pit stop for travellers heading towards Kundasang or Mount Kinabalu via Jalan Tuaran and the Ranau-Tamparuli highway. 
It is famous for Nabalu Market, the handicraft and vegetable market with a direct view of Mount Kinabalu. 


KUNDASANG, SABAH
A hill town in Ranau District, about 6 km from Kinabalu Park HQ, in Kundasang Valley in the Crocker Range. 


Kundasang town, the new double-storey shoplots and the view down the valley kampungs with blue zinc roofs. Classid 90s Kundasang before Desa Farm and modern hotels.


Kundasang War Memorial, established in 1962, is one of the first memorials in Sabah. Built in honour or the Australian and British POWs who died in Sandakan and during the infamous Sandakan Death March to Ranau in WWII. Only 6 Australians survived out of 2,400. 
It also remembers the people of North Borneo who risked their lives to help the prisoners of war. 


TM Resort at Kundasang (now Kinabalu Pine Resort), opened in 1995, is owned by Telekom Malaysia (hence TM Resort) as a highland holiday resort for staff and the public. 
Located along Kundasang-Ranau Highway, 0.5 km or 10 minutes' walk from the War Memorial.

MANGGATAL, SABAH / KOMPLEKS KARAMUNSING
Manggatal is a town north of Kota Kinabalu on the way to Tuaran, surrounded by villages and light industrial areas. 



Top Left: Kompleks Karamunsing, one of KK's earliest malls, along with Centre Point and Wisma Merdeka. Opened in the late 90s. View taken from Bukit Signal Hill looking down. 
Top Right: Mount Kinabalu Restaurant, the main restaurant at Kinabalu Park HQ Kundasang. Every tour group in the 90s ate there before going to Poring/Timpohon.
Bottom Left / Right: Rafflesia Seafood at Manggatal on 3 June 1997. It was a famous spot for nightly cultural dance performances from 7.45 p.m. to 8.45 p.m., showing Sabah's largest indigenous ethnic groups. 

TAMPARULI, SABAH
Tamparuli, located in the Tuaran District of Sabah, approximately 38 km northeast of Kota Kinabalu, is known for its scenic landscapes. On my trip from Kota Kinabalu to Kundasang, I have driven through Tamparuli, the gateway town before Kiulu and Nabalu. 
The Tamparuli Suspension Bridge spans Sungai Tuaran/Sungai Kiulu. The bridge in the photo below is the new bridge built in early 1999. The original bridge was built by the British in the 1930s-1960s. 
The Kadazandusun folk song "Jambatan Tamparuli" by Justin Lusah (1977) is about a man who lost his high-heeled shoe into the river on Tamu (market) and walked home in socks. 
There is also a legend behind the bridge, the legend of Solungkoi, the love triangle between a British officer named Robinson and a young local girl named Solungkoi. A local young man named Intang was jealous. You can read the whole story below:



2013: KK TO KOTA MARUDU
My journey from Kota Kinabalu to Kota Marudu in 2013, northbound on Kudat Highway. Distance is about 128 km, a 2-3 hour drive. 



Top Left: Tuaran Bypass, view of Gunung Kinabalu. It's just after Inanam/Telipok.
Top Right: Teluk Sepanggar – dual carriage away down to Sepanggar Bay Container Port. The cranes you see on the horizon are the port. The new Sepanggar Tunnel was built to shorten the lorry time from port to KK. 
Bottom Left: Universiti Malaysia Sabah (UMS) – the iconic twin towers with red roofs on the hill, connected by bridge – UMS main campus at Sepanggar Bay, Lipat Bay. 
Bottom Right: Straight road to Kota Marudu; after Kota Belud, you can see the electricity pylon and Mt Kinabalu in the distance. About 30-40 km before Pekan Kota Marudu. 


KK - Kota Marudu trip, the stretch before Tamparuli. All three towns are on Jalan Tuaran Lama. 
Tuaran, a district town about 34 km north of KK, is home of Dusun Lotud people. Tuaran is famous for Tuaran Mee and as a gateway to Kiulu dan Tamparuli. 
Inanam: 10 km from city centre, During WWII, Inanam was the base for the Kinabalu Guerillas, the resistance led by Albert Kwok against the Japanese. The Inanam-Menggatal-Telipok area was the guerilla HQ, with Hakka Chinese support. 
Telipok: 15 km north of KK, 5 km of Menggatal, Sepanggar and Tuaran. The Vietnam War film "BBat 21" (1988) was shot around Menggatal, Telipok, and Kayu Madang. 

KOTA BELUD
Kota Belud means "Fort on the Hill" a Sama/Bajau language. The nickname was "Cowboy Town of the East", because the local Bajau people are Sabah's only horsemen, famous for rearing and training horses for centuries. 
About 70 km from KK – it's the cultural heartland of the Bajau – Kadazan-Dusun.


KOTA MARUDU
About 130 km north of KK, the town where my KK-Kudat highway ends before Kudat. 



Top Left: Kota Marudu roundabout with a fish statue, as the Kota Marudu district is fishing and a paddy town. The name Marudu itself was first mapped by a Dutch sailor in 1595 who sailed from Brunei, and the area was home to Balanggi sea troops of the Brunei/Sulu Sultanates. 
Top Right: Dewan Komuniti Kota Marudu where we had our Health Screening Programme. It's a multi-purpose hall for government events.
Bottom Left: Hotel Season 2, where we stay during our event at Kota Marudu. Above BSN, it's the main hotel for travellers doing KK-Kudat. 
Bottom Right: Old shoplot street, the original Kota Marudu old town. 

Kota Marudu is historically famous for the Battle of Marudu Bay in the early 19th century, where Sharif Usman vs. the British. 
My August 2013 route complete > KK > Teluk Sepanggar > UMS > Inanam > Tuaran > Telipok > Tamparuli > Kota Belud > Kota Marudu. 

KK - KIMANIS - KENINGAU
Route KK-Kimanis-Keningau, over Crocker Range. Elevation goes from sea level to Gunung Alab (1964 m) and Dimie Pendalaman Resort at 1371 m. 





Keningau, "Land of the Wakid" – Wakid is a basket, the identity of Keningau. It's a traditional Dusun backpack-basket, woven from rattan or bamboo, with shoulder straps. Worn on the back, used for carrying paddy, vegetables, firewood, babies, and everything in interior life. 

Info Photo:
Top-left: Dewan Tan Sri Joseph Kurup in Keningau district. Named after Tan Sri Josep Kurup, a veteran Sabah politician from Sook, former MP for Keningau and founder of the PBRS Party of Sabah. 
Top-right: S.K.Sook, about 40 km south of Keningau town, on the way to Nabawan.
Bottom-left: Roundabout Monument in Keningau, the iconic Wakid Monument,the black stone with golden Wakid (traditional Dusun Basket) on top and two spears. Wakid is Keningau symbol, famous for its rattan and bamboo basket weaving.
Bottom-right : Taman Ternakan Sebrang, Livestock Park Keningau. An agricultural/livestock station across from Keningau town. 

KALABAKAN 
A town in Tawau District, about 5 km west of the town of Tawau. This is the famous junction where Tawau - Sepulut - Keningau highway splits. The roundabout is near the Kalimantan Border, the gateway to Maliau Basin, Sabah's lost world. 
The bottom-right photo, is the Kalabakan Memorial for the 1963 confrontation incident.During Indonesia-Malaysia Confrontation, Indonesian forces infiltrated at Kalabakan in December1962. The Royal Malay Regiment fought here - several soldiers killed. The memorial in the photo honors those soldiers, their names on the plaques.


MALIAU BASIN
Maliau Basin, 34 km from the Kalabakan roundabout. Known as Sabah's Lost World. A huge almost-circular crater basin, 390 sq km, surrounded by 1,600 m high rim. Never permanently inhabited - too remote, too difficult. 
Discovered by British pilot in 1947 who saw the crater from air. Inside: untouched rainforest, with over 80 species of orchids, pygmy elephants, clouded leopards, banteng.The centre has Maliau Falls, 7-tier waterfall, 28 m high. 
It was managed by Yayasan Sabah. To enter you need permit, guide, 4x4 from Kalabakan. That's why it have the 54 km sign - it's logging road, muddy. 


LAHAD DATU, SANDAKAN & TAWAU
1. Lahad Datu Airport - small domestic airport managed by Malaysia Airports.This is the gateway to east coast, near Danum Valley and the site of the 2013 Lahad Datu intrusion (Sulu militants). Lahad Datu is halfway between Sandakan and Tawau, on Darvel Bay. 
2. Sepilok, Sandakan : The Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. Located near Sandakan, 26 km west of town. Founded in 1964, oldest Orangutan rehab centre in world. Orphaned baby Orangutans are taught to survive wild.This is Sabah's most famous wildlife attraction, alongside Kinabalu Park. 
3. Tawau : The waterfront promenade at Tanjung Batu, Tawau. Tawau is Sabah's third largest city after KK and Sandakan. I had been here earlier, in the 90s when my ship alongside the KD Sri Tawau Jetty, RMN base at Tawau. It is the Eastern Fleet, Wilayah Laut 2. It guards the east of Sabah coast (ESSZONE) against piracy and intrusion from Sulu Sea.  


Wonderful Sabah, I had completed a full loop. Almost 2,000 km of Sabah covered as from my time in the Navy (1980-1996), 1997-2013. 

KK > Kimanis > Keningau > Kalabakan > Maliau Basin > Tawau > Lahad Datu > Sandakan > Sepilok > Kundasang > Kota Marudu

While not everyone had the opportunity to complete a full loop of Sabah, the experiences shared by those who did are truly remarkable. Each journey through this beautiful state reveals unique landscapes, rich cultures, and unforgettable encounters.

From the bustling streets of Kota Kinabalu to the serene heights of Kundasang, every stop along the way offers a glimpse into the diverse heritage of Sabah. The vibrant markets, stunning natural parks, and historical sites tell stories that resonate with both locals and visitors alike.

For those who missed out on the full loop, there are still countless adventures to be had. Exploring the hidden gems of Sabah, such as the tranquil beaches of Tanjung Aru or the lush trails of Crocker Range, can provide a taste of the beauty that awaits.

Whether it's a short trip or a grand tour, Sabah's charm is undeniable, and each journey contributes to the tapestry of memories that make this region so special. So, while not everyone may have completed the full loop, the spirit of exploration and discovery continues to thrive in every corner of Sabah.

Hj Zulheimy Maamor
18 October 2026: 1:30 a.m.

Saturday, 17 October 2026

MY PHOTO - HISTORIC & INTERESTING PLACES (KELANTAN & TERENGGANU)

KELANTAN

1987: PENGKALAN KUBUR TO TAK BAI
Pengkalan Kubur, a small coastal town in Tumpat District, Kelantan, bordering Tak Bai in Narathiwat, Thailand across the estuary of Sungai Golok. 
In 1987, there was no bridge joining Tak Bai dan Pengkalan Kubur. The residents of both border towns cross the river by boat or ferry. 


GUA MUSANG, KELANTAN
Gua Musang is located in Southern Kelantan, bordered by the state of Pahang to the south, Terengganu to the east, Perak to the west and Kuala Krai and Jeli of Kelantan. 

My first experience with Gua Musang was in 2012, on the way from KL to Kota Bharu for our events at Ketereh. The journey was filled with anticipation as we drove through Route 8, which is still under construction with a 40 km/h limit and red-white barriers. Two federal routes intersect here: Route 8 to Kota Bharu north and Route 185 from Simpang Pulai/Cameron Highlands to Kuala Terengganu. 

Gua Musang, with its stunning limestone hills and rich cultural heritage, left a lasting impression on me. I remember stopping to admire the breathtaking views and the unique rock formations that seemed to tell stories of the past.

Since then, Gua Musang has held a special place in my heart, and I look forward to returning to explore more of its hidden gems.




The RnR Gua Musang is now famous for durian – Gua Musang is the original home of the Musang King (Mao Shan Wang) cultivar, called "King of Durian". 

On 11 August 2018, Yayasan Jantung Malaysia organised Health Screening at Kg. Pos Brooke Lama, Gua Musang, Kelantan. The village arch entrance with Jalur Gemilang decorations and Orang Asli wood carvings. The village is in Jajahan Kecil Lojing, Gua Musang. 
Pos Brooke is not one village but a cluster of 18+ villages with 523 households and 2,320 Temiar people, the largest Orang Asli settlement in Gua Musang. 



PASAR KHADIJAH, KOTA BHARU, KELANTAN
Photos of my memories at Pasar Khadijah in 2012 and 2016. Only in 2018 there are no photos. Located in the heart of Kota Bharu, it was opened in 1985 as Pasar Besar Buluh Kubu and was renamed Pasar Siti Khadijah in 1997 by Menteri Besar, Nik Abdul Aziz Nik Mat.
It was named after Khadijah bt Khuwailid, wife of the Prophet Muhammad s.a.w., who was a successful businesswoman herself. Fitting because this market is famously dominated by women sellers, earning it the nickname "Pasar Wanita" (Women's Market). 


NASI ULAM CIKGU, KOTA BHARU, KELANTAN
A Kelantan legend, located at Kampung Kraftangan, Jalan Hilir Kota, Kota Bharu, just a short walk from Pasar Siti Khadijah. 
The building is originally a Kelantanese wooden kampung house with an attap-style roof. It is a popular spot in Kota Bharu. The founder is a former teacher (Cikgu). Listed as one of the 33 Best Family Restaurants in Kota Bharu.


PANTAI SENOK @ PANTAI NAMI, BACHOK, KELANTAN
Kelantan's most viral beach spots right now. The real name is Pantai Senok, nicknamed "Pantai Nami" because it looks like Nami Island in South Korea. 
Located at Kampung Senok in Bachok District, Kelantan, about 16 km from Kota Bharu. They are Casuarina trees / pokok Rhu planted in neat rows to prevent coastal erosion and flooding. 




MASJID BEIJING, RANTAU PANJANG, KELANTAN
The official name is Sultan Ismail Petra Silver Jubilee Mosque, located at Rantau Panjang, Kelantan. It was initiated by Allahyarham Tuan Guru Nik Abdul Aziz Nik Mat, former Menteri Besar of Kelantan. The mosque resembles the 1,000-year-old Niujie Mosque in Beijing, China. It was constructed in 2005 and inaugurated in August 2009. 




RUMAH HIJAU / GREEN HOUSE, RANTAU PANJANG, KELANTAN
One of the most photographed stops on the Pasir Mas-Rantau Panjang road, right after/before Masjid Beijing. Owned by Hjh Wan Sabariah Bt Wan Ali. It's a working food production house that became a viral photo spot because of the colour. If you like dodol (as in my photo), a classic chewy palm-sugar dodol, it's usually the bestseller for bringing back to KL plus the serunding. 




MASJID JAMEK RAZALEIGH
Located at Gua Musang, Kelantan, a mini replica of Masjidharam Mosque in Mekkah, it was built in 2016 to replace the old Masjid Razaleigh and was opened to the public in April 2022. 



JAMBATAN SULTAN YAHYA PETRA
A major bridge in Kota Bharu crossing the Sungai Kelantan. Construction began in 1965 and was completed in 1967 by Kien Huat Private Ltd, a family firm of Tan Sri Lim Goh Tong. 
The riverbank on the right of the photo is the Kampung Sireh/Tanjung Mas area, with small fishing boats moored. 



TERENGGANU
1987: PULAU BIDONG
Patrolling the area of Pulau Bidong in 1987 with KD Sri Negri Sembilan. Officially opened as a refugee camp for Vietnamese refugees on 8 August 1978. About 250,000 refugees passed through Pulau Bidong from 1978 to 1991. 
It is officially closed on 30 October 1991, as the remaining refugees moved to Sungai Besi Transit camp in KL and were then repatriated. Final repatriation was 28 August 2005. Today, it houses the Universiti Malaysia Terengganu Marine Research Station. 




1987: PULAU PERHENTIAN
A place to rest and relax after several days of conducting EEZ patrol duties with RMN Patrol Craft in the South China Sea. RMN patrols were covering the east coast for Vietnamese boat people moving toward Pulau Bidong. 
Pulau Perhentian, off Besut District, about 21 km from Kuala Besut jetty. In 1994, it was declared part of Pulau Redang National Marine Park.
Today, it is famous as a diver's haven and protected marine park. Coral view, Perhentian Island Resort, etc. 


1996: MASJID TERAPUNG, KUALA TERENGGANU
Officially Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah, officially opened in July 1995 by Sultan Mahmud Al-Muktafi Billah Shah. The first real floating mosque in Malaysia, located in Kuala Ibai, about 4 km from Kuala Terengganu. 


The mosque in 2026

2015: TAMAN TAMADUN ISLAM & MASJID KRISTAL
Both are located at Pulau Wan Man, Losong, Kuala Terengganu. Masjid Kristal was built in 2006-1008 inside the Taman Tamadun Islam. Taman Tamadun Islam was created to house Masjid Kristal as its centrepiece, which includes Monument Park with 22 replica mosques such as Masjidilharam, Masjid Nabawai, Alhambra, etc. 




Masjid Kristal in 2026

2015: STATE MUSEUM OF TERENGGANU
Located at Bukit Losong, Kuala Terengganu, it was founded in 1996 and acclaimed as the largest of its kind in Malaysia. 
9 main galleries—Natural History, Textiles, Royal, Crafts, Petroleum, Islamic, Historical, Fisheries & Marine, and Seafaring & Trade. It also houses the original Batu Bersurat (Inscribed Stone) from 1303 — the earliest evidence of Islam in the Malay Peninsula.



2015: PASAR PAYANG & BAZAR WARISAN
Pasar Payang, located at Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, built in the 1960s, my photo in 2015 was of an old building. The new building complex was completed in 2024. 
The Bazar Warisan, which is directly in front of Pasar Payang, was built as an extension shopping complex. 

Pasar Payang in 2015

Pasar Payang in 2026

Bazar Warisan

2015: PANTAI PENARIK, SETIU
Also known as Pantai Rhu Sepuluh, it is a famous beach because it is not affected by aggressive development.
We stay at Pandan Laut Beach Resort during our event at University College Bestari at Setiu. 







Along Pantai Penarik, there are dozens of stalls selling the Udang Celup Tepung, Maggi Telur Sotong, Nasi Sup, etc. 

2015: KAMPUNG LOSONG, KUALA TERENGGANU
Kampung Losong, Kuala Terengganu, is the birthplace of Keropok Lekor, Terengganu's most famous snack, that chewy fish sausage, fresh fish meat blended with sago flour and salt, hand-rolled into long sausage shapes. 
The Sariah Ismail's stall was among the pioneers and became so famous that her frozen keropok is now sold all over Malaysia and even overseas. 



BATU BUROK BEACH
The most famous beach in Kuala Terengganu, about 1 km from the city centre, stretching along the South China Sea coast. It's not really a swimming beach, currents are strong and swimming can be dangerous. People go for picnicking on mats, watching the sunset, sea breeze, etc.
It's considered one of the best beaches in Kuala Terengganu city for families and a popular place for strolling, especially in the evening.


MASJID 8 KUBAH
Located at Kampung Lapan Kotak, Jerteh, Besut, Terengganu, about 8 km from Bandar Jerteh. The official name is Masjid Al-Muttaqin, but it is better known as Masjid 8 Kubah or Masjid Russia, as the 8 onion domes are inspired by St Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, Russia. Built in 2017 through public donations plus an initial RM500,000 from MAIDAM (Majlis Agama Islam dan Adat Melayu Terengganu). Capacity can accommodate about 500 congregants at one time. 


PULAU LANG TENGAH
Located between Pulau Redang and Pulau Perhentian, about 40 km northeast of Kuala Terengganu, 22.5 km from Tanjung Merang Jetty. Accessible by ferry from Merang – Summer Bay Jetty Mangkuk is the main gateway now. 
Activity: Snorkelling & diving, island hopping, etc. 


KUALA TELEMUNG
Inland gateway town – everyone stops at coming off LPT. 2. Located at Hulu Terengganu district, about 20 km south of Kuala Berang. We stopped here for petrol on our way to Kuala Berang. 
Kuala Telemong is famous because the LPT2 (Lebuhraya Pantai Timur 2) highway alignment had to be diverted to avoid the grave of Wali (Saint) of Tok Ku Pulau Manis, whose real name is Sharif Abdul Malik Sharif Abdullah, an ulama considered a wali (saint) who died in 1736. 
Local people say that heavy machinery broke down or workers fell ill when trying to clear the graves, so the engineers finally chose to lencong (divert) to avoid the graves of the Wali. 




Makam 12, the graves of 12 warriors of Terengganu who died in the 1928 anti-British uprising. Because it's inside the mosque compound (Masjid Haji Abdul Rahman Limbong), the LPT2 exit and the Telemong interchange road had to be curved around it. 

HENTIAN REHAT PERASING
2017 – one of our favourite R&R and the most talked-about R&R in Malaysia for 2 reasons: the design and the ghost stories. 
Located at Chukai, Kemaman, Terengganu, near the border of Pahang and Terengganu. This is among the R&R that was listed as one of the top 5 most haunted R&R in Malaysia. There are many hauntings shared by drivers who stopped and passed by this R&R, such as the woman in a black robe with no face, whistling sounds inside empty toilets, a voice of a woman singing while changing a baby diaper, but toilet empty and many others. 
Because of the location is surrounded by thick forest, it was a former communist mass grave area during Emergency at Perasing stretch according to local oral stories, and it's very isolated at 2-4 am with no other buildings for kilometres. 


KUALA TERENGGANU DRAWBRIDGE
The Jambatan Angkat Terengganu, also called Ghetok Congek Tranung. The first drawbridge built in Malaysia and Southeast Asia. It was opened to public in 2019. 
Tower drawbridge is 638 metres in length while its 76 metres bascule can be raised & lowered using conterweights to allow vessels to pass. Its connects Kuala Terengganu and Kuala Nerus - carries motor vehicles, pedestrians.
The 4 towers with sky-bridges inspired by London's Tower Bridge, but with Terengganu motifs. 


Memorable photos from my time in Kelantan and Terengganu capture the essence of these vibrant states, showcasing their rich culture, stunning landscapes, and warm-hearted people.

In Kelantan, I remember the bustling atmosphere of Pasar Siti Khadijah, where the colorful stalls overflowed with local delicacies and handmade crafts. The smiles of the women vendors, proudly selling their goods, created a lively backdrop that truly represented the spirit of the market.

Gua Musang's limestone hills provided a breathtaking view that I couldn't resist capturing. The unique rock formations, coupled with the lush greenery, made for an unforgettable landscape that I still cherish.

Moving on to Terengganu, the floating Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah stood majestically against the backdrop of the sea. The intricate architecture and serene surroundings made it a perfect spot for reflection and photography.

At Pantai Penarik, I snapped photos of the pristine beach, where the gentle waves kissed the shore. The vibrant sunset painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, creating a picturesque scene that felt like a dream.

Each photo tells a story, a moment frozen in time, reminding me of the beauty and culture that Kelantan and Terengganu have to offer. I look forward to sharing these memories and more as I continue to explore the wonders of Malaysia.

Hj Zulheimy Maamor
17 October 2026: 8:16 p.m.