ME AND TAIPING, MY BIRTHTOWN

The white quarter with a red roof. Photo taken in 2003, 42 years after my family left Taiping. Paint peeling, but the roof tiles still held. 

I was born at Kelapa Line Quarters, at Jalan Kamunting Lama, Taiping, Perak, on 2 July 1961. An army quarters at the foot of Bukit Larut, where the clouds come down to touch the red tiles.

"Saya anak Taiping. Dan Taiping, seperti emak, tidak pernah lupa – walaupun kita yang lupa jalan pulang...."

"Taiping does not shout. It whispers. In rain on zinc, in morning mist off Larut, in the way old names stay on signboards long after people leave."

"Rumah Kerajaan tidak mewah, tapi dia mengajar kita arti cukup. Enough..."

MALAYAN SPECIAL FORCE TO CONGO (ONUC)

During those years in Taiping, my father, Allahyarham 2059 Maamor bin Sudin, served with the 7th Battalion, The Royal Malay Regiment (7 RAMD) and was selected as one of the first Malaysian soldiers to serve internationally under the United Nations Flag in Congo, Africa. They were sent to Congo to stabilise the country following the "Congo Crisis".

7 RAMD based in Taiping, Perak, left the country onboard the USNS R.M. Blatchford on 17 February 1962 and arrived at Port Dar-es-Salam on 27 February 1962. The team was stationed in Bukavu, Congo. 

The battalion was assisted by Malaysian military personnel from Squadron A, 1st Reconnaissance Regiment, under the command of Major Harchand Singh.

During the service of 7 RAMD in Congo, the battalion lost one member, Private 13560 Sionah bin Jantan, who died from drowning in the Bukavu River on 6 June 1962. The battalion returned to the country on 8 January 1963.

For more details and photos at Congo, kindly click the link below:

https://zulheimymaamor.blogspot.com/2026/04/7th-battalion-royal-malay-regiment-1953.html

KAMUNTING IN THE 60S

My eldest brother, my Abang Sulong, entered the King Edward VII when our family lived in Taiping. The school was already 80 years old then. The oldest school in the Malay States, founded in 1883.

Photo taken in 2017 when I was on an assignment in Taiping.

THE FIRST OF TAIPING

They say Taiping has 40 firsts in Malaysia, such as the first newspaper, the first museum, the first English school, the first railway station, the first rest house, etc.... It can feel like a list. Walk at Jalan Stesen in the morning; you will understand: this was a town built to be first, because Larut had tin and tin had money, and money needed order. 

References:

1. Sembang Kuala: 40 "First" of Taiping. 
2. Taiping Heritage: The 'First' in Taiping.
3. OO cities: Taiping's Many Firsts. 
4. Malaysia Travel: Discover some of 'Malaysia's First' via Taiping's Heritage Trail. 

The 1885 Railway Station – first in Malaysia. Now a kopitiam where time is measured in kopi refills, not departures. 

Muzium Perak at Taiping on 3 February 2003 during my family vacation. During my visit in 2003, the museum was already 120 years old. The oldest museum in Malaysia. 

Founded by Sir Hugh Low in 1993, the 4th British Resident of Perak (1877-1889), he built it with Sir Frank Swettenham through fundraising efforts.

Rest House, blue hoarding. The first rest house in Malaysia. 

Taman Tasik Taiping, Bandar Warisan, in 2015. Malaysia's first public garden, established in 1880, during British rule. Taiping was that time the capital of Perak and getting all the firsts. 

Ansari Cendol and Rojak at Jalan Barrack, since 1940. If Taiping has a taste, this is it - cold, sweet with bite. 

RETURNING - 2003 

In 2003, at the age of 42 years old, for the first time I stood in front of the house I was born in; my wife took a photo. That house was still standing; the paint was gone in patches. Someone had left a pail. But it was still mine, in the way birthplaces are. 

Me, in 2003, age 42 years old, in a camouflage shirt, standing where my mother once held me at the doorway. 

Photo taken in 2017 (14 years after my first visit in 2003).

RETURNING 2017

On the morning walk in December 2017, just a few steps from my hotel (Cherry Inn), I stood there in front of my brother's old school, the King Edward VII, the oldest English school in the Malay States, founded in 1883. 

On the same day, I walk to the Taiping War Cemetery. Among the stones, a smaller memorial: "Our Gallant Old Edwardians, Lest we Forget. "

These were boys from the King Edward VII who joined the Federated Malay States Volunteer Force; they went south to defend Singapore. They fell on 15 February 1942, the day of the fall of Singapore. They return to Taiping in a body bag. Their story has never been told.

I stood a long time. My brother's old school, my birth town, and these boys who never got to be old men like me in camouflage shirts in front of quarters. 

Taiping War Cemetery – The final resting place for Allied personnel killed during World War II, specifically the Malayan Campaign Dec 1941 – Feb 1942, when Japanese forces pushed down the west coast of Malaya. Also known as Commonwealth War Cemetery.

Built 1946-1947 and established by Major J.H. Ingram, who led 30 men of the No. 46 War Graves Registration Unit. Their gruesome task was recovering bodies from battlefields, temporary burial grounds, and village cemeteries all over Malaya and re-irrigating them here.

Location: Jalan Bukit Larut, about 2 km past Taman Tasik Taiping.

The FMSVF were the local volunteer forces — Chinese, Malay, and Indian volunteers from Perak who fought alongside British, Australian, and Indian Army battalions. Taiping itself was a garrison town with an Indian Army battalion, a casualty receiving station, and the Indian 20th Combined General Hospital during the retreat to Singapore.

The two graves above, both died in early 1942, during the fall of Malaya. My photo shows the FMSVF badge clearly at the top of the stones — the shield with the Federated Malay States emblem and crown.

'Lest we forget' is not a slogan. In Taiping, it is an address – you can walk to it. They left Taiping for Singapore but returned in a body bag.

My photo, my return to Taiping, was taken on 17 December 2017 at 8.15 a.m. in old Taiping town, near Jalan Barrack and Ansari Cendol. 

Jalan Panglima Ah Chong is named after So Ah Chong, leader of Ghee Hin during the Larut Wars in 1862-1873. 

In reality, he was not just a leader of a Kongsi Gelap or secret society; he was the de facto administrator, tax farmers, employers of 15,000 coolies and founder of the town itself. 

Chung Keng Quee (Hai San) controlled the largest tin mine in Malaya by 1887, and So Ah Chong controlled the other half of Larut. There is also Jalan Chung Thye Phin (son of Chung Keng Quee), just 50 m apart. 

I was born on Old Kamunting Road in 1961 – this is literally the history of my birth town. 

A classic house, just opposite King Edward VII Primary School, just next to my hotel (Cherry Inn). One of the Taiping Heritage shop-houses/peranakan houses that the Taiping Municipal Council has been trying to conserve under the Taiping 2020 heritage plan — about 100 such houses identified in the old town.

What Remains

As I write this in 2026, two things are happening at once.

The Rest House is being restored as the 1969 Heritage Rest House, timed for Visit Malaysia 2026. Blue hoarding is down, and timber is being repaired properly — or so the board says. Taiping finally understands what it has: the first rest house in the country, sitting 200 metres from the first railway station. It should never have been left to rot.

And Kelapa Line Quarters — my birth house — is on a list. Government quarters list: 100 abandoned buildings in Perak. Overgrown, roof leaking, termites perhaps. Majlis does not know what to do with them. Too small to be heritage, too historic to be demolished. So they wait.

That is why I kept my photos. The 2003 one and the 2017 one with lalang. They may be the last record. When I took them, I thought I was documenting nostalgia. Now I think I was doing kerja arkib — archival work, without knowing.

"Taiping does not need you to remember it. It remembers itself."

If you have a quarter, a kampung house, or a longhouse you were born in – go and photograph it now. Not with a drone, not for Instagram. Just stand in front, ask someone to take your photo, and write the date behind it. One day, it will be the only proof you were once small there. 

References:

1. Zulheimy Maamor: 7th Battalion, The Royal Malay Regiment - 2059 WO2 Maamor bin Sudin. 

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

7 October 2026: 1:27 a.m.

MY PHOTO: HISTORIC AND INTERESTING PLACES (PERAK)

1980: JETI PULAU PANGKOR

The old Pulau Pangkor Jetty in 1980, before Marina Island existed. In the 1980s, from Lumut town Jetty, it took about 40 mins, first stop at Sungai Pinang Kecil Jetty, then Jetty Pangkor. 

Pulau Pangkor is rich in history and culture, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in exploring its historical sites. Some notable historical sites you can visit:

1. Dutch Fort (Fort De Luister)

Built in the 17th century by the Dutch, this fort served as a strategic military outpost. Although much of it has eroded over time, the remnants still tell the story of colonial struggles in the region.

2. Batu Bersurat (Inscribed Stone)

This ancient stone, located near the beach, is inscribed with historical writings that date back to the 18th century. It serves as a reminder of the island's rich past and its significance in maritime trade.

Pangkor Jetty in 2012

1981/2013: KELLIE'S CASTLE, BATU GAJAH, PERAK

The first time I saw Kellie's Castle was in 1980 while travelling on an express bus from Lumut to Kuala Lumpur. 

It was a captivating sight, nestled amidst lush greenery and surrounded by a sense of mystery. The castle, built by the Scottish planter William Kellie Smith, stood as a testament to his ambition and dreams.

As the bus rolled by, I couldn't help but be drawn to its unique architecture, a blend of Moorish and Indian influences that made it stand out from the typical structures in Malaysia. The stories of its construction, the tragic tale of Kellie Smith, and the rumoured hauntings added an air of intrigue that lingered in my mind long after the bus had left the site behind.

I promised myself that one day, I would return to explore its halls and uncover the secrets hidden within its walls. And it was in 2013 that I had the opportunity to visit the Kellie's Castle with my family, as it had been turned into a tourist destination in Perak. 

1985: BUKIT UNGKU BUSU, LUMUT, PERAK

The hill was named after Raja Engku Busu of Selangor, who was invited by the Sultan of Perak in the 1840s to help get rid of pirates who were rife in this area at the time. However, the mission failed, as Raja Engku Busu was killed in the area. 

However, Engku Busu's death caused controversy because he was recorded by Muzium Lukut to be killed with his family in the Kongsi gelap uprising in September 1834. Many historians consider the 1834 Lukut as the correct date for Raja Busu's death. The Bukit Engku Busu version is oral tradition/local toponymy — not a written Perak court record. Whether it is two people with the same title conflated. 

1985: TELUK MUROH & TELUK BATIK, LUMUT, PERAK

Teluk Muroh, a coastal village at the southern edge of Lumut town, Manjung District, in Perak. It's on Jalan Teluk Muroh, the main road to TLDM Lumut Naval Base, Teluk Batik and Marina Island.

While Teluk Batik is about 7 km from Lumut town, 10 minutes from Bandar Seri Manjung. Same stretch of coast as Teluk Muroh, just south - both accessed by Jalan Teluk Muroh. 

Teluk Muroh, Lumut, Perak

Teluk Batik, Lumut, Perak

2003: KELAPA LINE QUARTERS, KAMUNTING, TAIPING, PERAK

Kelapa Line Quarters, the old British Army barracks at Jalan Kamunting Lama. This is where I was born on 2 July 1961. Only after 42 years (1961-2003) did I have a chance to visit my place of birth. 

I revisited again in 2017, where the entire heritage is mostly gone, replaced or reclaimed by jungle. 

My father, who served with the 7th Battalion Royal Malay Regiment, was stationed at Kem Kamunting in those days, where my eldest brother went to S.K. King Edwards VII in 1963.

2003: MASJID UBUDIAH, KUALA KANGSAR, PERAK

During a family vacation in Taiping, we stopped at the Ubudiah Mosque in Kuala Kangsar, Perak, to perform prayers on our way back to Kuala Lumpur.

Located at Bukit Chandan, Jalan Istana, Kuala Kangsar, Masjid Ubudiah, the Royal Mosque of Perak, is consistently voted as Malaysia's most beautiful mosque. 

Built in 1914 and was commissioned by the 28th Sultan of Perak, Sultan Idris Murshidul'adzam Shah, as an act of thanksgiving for recovery from an illness.

It was designed by A.B. Hubback, the same man who designed KL Railway Station and Ipoh Railway Station. 

2003: PERAK MUSEUM, TAIPING

The oldest museum in Malaysia. Founded by Sir Hugh Low, the 4th British Resident of Perak, in 1883. He built it with Sir Frank Swettenham through fundraising efforts. Its first curator was Leonard Wray Jr, a botanist and geologist. 

Taiping at the time was the capital of Perak and the first proper town established by the British in Malaya. 

The Australian-made Avon Sabre, RMAF F-86, registration FM19-17, was on display outside the Perak Museum. 

2012: GREEN RIDGE, KAMPAR

The most historic spots in Perak, the actual battle of Kampar site is up the ridge. Green Ridge is the site for the battle that took place on 30 December 1941 between the 11th Indian Division (British Battalion formed from the 1st Leicestershire Regiment, 2nd East Surrey Regiment, Jat-Punjab Regiment, Gurkas and Sikhs) and the Japanese 5th Division under Lt Gen Takuro Matsui. The Japanese lost so many men, and it was the first serious defeat for the Japanese in the Malayan Campaign. 

2015: TAIPING LAKE GARDEN

Malaysia's first public garden, established in 1880. An abandoned tin mining ground, it was the idea of Colonel Robert Walker and developed by British administrator Charles Compton Reade into a recreational haven. 

2017: JALAN PANGLIMA AH CHONG, TAIPING, PERAK

Named after So Ah Chong, the leader of the Chinese Secret Society, Ghee Hin, during the Larut Wars from 1862 to 1873 between the Ghee Hin and Hai San.

In reality, he was not just a ganster; he was the de facto administrator, tax farmer, employer of 15,000 coolies and founder of the town itself.

2017: STESEN KERETAPI TAIPING

Malaysia's first railway station, opened on 1 June 1885, is also Malaysia's first railway line from Taiping to Port Weld. When I was there in 2017, Taiping was already using the new station; this old building was still standing. 

Taiping Rest House at Jalan Stesen, opposite S.K. King Edward VII and next to the old Railway Station. It was built in 1879 as a single-storey residence for the British Governor of the Straits Settlements. Converted to a rest house in 1894, it became Malaysia's first rest house. 

The status in 2026 was under active restoration to reopen as a heritage hotel. 

2017: TAIPING WAR CEMETERY

The final resting place for Allied personnel killed during World War II, specifically the Malayan Campaign from December 1941 to February 1942. It is also known as Commonwealth War Cemetery. It is located at Jalan Bukit Larut, about 2 km past Taman Tasik Taiping. 

Built in 1946-47 and established by Major J.H. Ingram, who led 30 men of No. 46 War Graves Registration Unit. 

Over 850 burials, with over 500 unidentified, are maintained immaculately by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission to this day. 

It also has local Malayan soldiers who died during the war, as in my photo the two graves of:

1. 10967 Corporal Chan Kam Weng – Federated Malay States Volunteer Force, died on 15 February 1942, age 35. 
2. 12243 Private Abdul Rahman bin Ahmad – Federated Malay States Volunteer Force – died 1 January 1942, age 19, with a Jawi inscription. 

2017: HERITAGE HOUSE, TAIPING

One of the Taiping shophouses/Peranakan houses that the Taiping Municipal Council has been trying to conserve under the Taiping 2020 heritage plan – about 100 such houses identified in the old town. 

Most of these houses on Jalan Stesen, Taiping, were built by the wealthy Hakka/Cantonese tin miners. 

2017: FAMOUS CENDOL AND ROJAK AT TAIPING

Restoran Ansari Famous Cendol, located at 92, Jalan Barrack, Taiping, Perak. Founded in 1940 by Abdul Kader, an Indian-Muslim emigrant. Now in its 3rd generation, fun by his grandson Ansari Abdul Rahman. 

2017: S.K. KING EDWARDS VII, TAIPING

Founded in 1883 as Central School, built on the land of Malaysia's first railway station, it had stood right opposite the Taiping Rest House (Malaysia's first resthouse, 1894). 

Named after King Edward VII in conjunction with his coronation in 1901. The school was inaugurated by H.R.H. Sultan of Perak in 1905 with 434 students.

The school was occupied by the Japanese Army as HQ of the Kempetai during World War II. 

My eldest brother was a student at this school in 1963, when my late father was stationed at the Kamunting Camp in Taiping.

2018: THE LABU SAYONG, KUALA KANGSAR

The famous Labu Sayong at Kuala Kangsar in Perak was made only in Sayong, a subdistrict 1 km-10 km from Kuala Kangsar on the opposite bank of Sungai Perak. 

Labu Sayong is a black, gourd-shaped erthenware water pitcher; it's not just pottery, it's Perak's cultural icon. There's even a traditional dance called the "Tarian Labu Sayong".

So when you see that huge Labu Sayong in the roundabout—it's Kuala Kangsar saying, "This is who we are."

2018: KUALA KANGSAR

The photo of Kuala Kangsar, captured from Sayong Resort during my overnight stay, beautifully showcases the serene landscape and the charming architecture that defines this historic town.

Staying at Sayong Resort not only provided comfort but also offered a unique vantage point to appreciate the beauty of Kuala Kangsar. Each moment spent there was a reminder of the rich cultural heritage and natural beauty that this town has to offer.

I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to immerse myself in such a captivating environment, where every corner tells a story and every view is a postcard-perfect memory.

The resort was founded by Dato' Seri Ismail Shahudin (born in Kuala Kangsar), and his wife sits right on the banks of Sungai Perak, about 1.6 km from the town centre. 

Jambatan Iskandariah, built in 1932 to replace the Enggor pontoon bridge that was washed away in the Big Flood of December 1931. It was officially opened by Sultan Iskandar Shah on 29 June 1932. 

2018: MENARA CONDONG TELUK INTAN

The Malaysian Pisa, built 1885-1886 by contractor Leong Chon Chong for water storage for the dry season & firefighting and the clock tower to keep time. It is also a beacon for boats coming into Teluk Anson (the old name of Teluk Intan). 

The chiming clock was installed in 1894 and bought from J.W. Benson, Ludgate Hill, London. 

Why it leans: Built on soft, muddy ground with a heavy water tank on top. After a flood in 1895, it started tilting to the southwest. That's the lean you see today.

OLD HOUSE IN LUMUT, PERAK

This old house is famous among paranormal groups as "Rumah Misteri". However, it is not in any record that this house is haunted; it's just a classic house that was simply left after the land was cleared. 

The state of Perak is truly synonymous with me, as it was there—specifically in Taiping—that I was born.

Taiping, with its rich history and vibrant culture, holds a special place in my heart. The memories of my childhood, the stories passed down through generations, and the beautiful landscapes of this town have shaped who I am today.

From the serene Taiping Lake Garden to the bustling streets filled with heritage shophouses, every corner of Taiping tells a story. It’s a place where the past and present intertwine, creating a unique tapestry of experiences that I cherish deeply.

As I reflect on my roots, I am reminded of the warmth of the community, the delicious local cuisine, and the rich traditions that continue to thrive. Taiping is not just my birthplace; it is a part of my identity, a place that has influenced my journey in countless ways.

I look forward to sharing more about my experiences in this remarkable town and how it has shaped my life.

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

6 October 2026: 5:40 p.m.