MY TRAVEL INFO: THE GRAVE OF SUNAN AMPEL AT SURABAYA

In 1990, the Grave of Sunan Ampel in Surabaya was a site of deep spiritual significance, much as it is today, though it existed in a slightly less commercialized and more "traditional" urban setting before the massive tourism infrastructure of the 21st century.

Sunan Ampel (Raden Rahmat) was one of the Wali Songo (Nine Saints) who spread Islam in Java during the 15th century.His tomb is the "spiritual heart" of Surabaya.

1. The Physical Appearance (circa 1990)

By 1990, the tomb complex already retained its unique, simple architectural style, which differs from the more ornate mausoleums of other saints.

• Simplicity: Unlike many other Wali Songo, Sunan Ampel’s grave does not have a large cupola (dome) over it. According to local history, he requested a simple grave. In 1990, it was—and remains—a modest structure surrounded by a low white wall.
• The Nine Gates: To reach the tomb, pilgrims had to pass through a series of nine gates (Gapura). In 1990, these gates stood as they do now, featuring a blend of Hindu-Javanese (Majapahit style) and Islamic architecture, symbolizing the transition between the two eras.
• Nature: The area was shaded by frangipani (kamboja) and hibiscus trees, providing a cool, quiet atmosphere for the dozens (rather than today's thousands) of pilgrims sitting cross-legged in prayer.

2. The Pilgrimage Experience in the 90s

The early 1990s marked a period where religious tourism in Indonesia began to modernize, but the Ampel district (Kampung Arab) still felt like a medieval enclave.

• The "Arab Quarter": The path to the grave through the Pasar Ampel (market) was a narrow, dark, and perfumed alleyway. In 1990, you would have seen vendors selling Yemeni dates, Pakistani Qur'an stands, and local Surabaya batik, but without the modern digital signage or LED lighting common today.
• Spiritual Climate: The site was a hub for ziarah (pilgrimage). People came to seek blessings (barakah), especially on Thursday nights (Malam Jumat) and during the month of Ramadan.
• Cultural Fusion: The complex was a vivid example of Javanese-Islamic syncretism. While the mosque was increasingly "Arabized" in its surrounding neighborhood, the grave itself remained a site of purely Javanese devotion.

3. Key Features of the Complex

Feature	Description
Location	Behind the Masjid Agung Sunan Ampel, the oldest mosque in East Java (est. 1421).
Simplicity	A roofless grave area, open to the sky, reflecting the Sunan's humility.
Mbah Sholeh	Nearby is the tomb of Mbah Sholeh, a disciple of Sunan Ampel. Legend says he lived and died nine times, and there are nine symbolic graves for him in the complex.
The Well	A sacred well (Sumur) believed to have auspicious water, similar to the Zamzam well in Mecca.

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28/12/2025: 10.16 A.M