MY TRAVEL INFO: TANJUNG PINANG, RIAU, INDONESIA

The photos capture the crew of KD LEKIR (F26) during a visit to the Riau Islands (Kepulauan Riau), specifically Tanjung Pinang and Pulau Lingga.

The photo of the ship crew standing in front o the Kantor Pos dan Giro Tanjung Pinang Kota (the main Post Office) located at Jalan Merdeka no.17.

This photo features the famous Gunung Daik on Lingga Island, recognised by its triple peak.

There is a famous Malay Pantun about Gunung Daik :

"Pulau Pandan Jauh Ke Tengah, Gunung Daik Bercabang Tiga. Hancur badan dikandung tanah, Budi yang baik dikenang juga..."

Visiting Tanjung Pinang—the capital of the Riau Islands—would have been a strategic and cultural stop, given its proximity to the Straits of Malacca and the shared Malay heritage between the two nations.

Tanjung Pinang is much more than just a port city; it is the spiritual and cultural heart of the Malay world in Indonesia. For a Malaysian sailor visiting in 1990, it likely felt like a "home away from home" due to the shared language, food, and history.

1. The "Cradle" of Malay Culture

Tanjung Pinang is the capital of the Riau Islands (Kepulauan Riau). Historically, it was a central part of the Johor-Riau-Lingga Empire.

• The Shared Roots: Before colonial borders were drawn, Johor (Malaysia) and Riau (Indonesia) were one kingdom. This is why the Malay spoken in Tanjung Pinang is considered the "purest" form and served as the basis for both the Malaysian and Indonesian national languages.
• Pulau Penyengat: Just a 15-minute boat ride from the city center is this tiny island, which was the seat of power for the Malay Sultans. It houses the famous Masjid Raya Sultan Riau, which legend says was built using egg whites as mortar.

For the crew of KD LEKIR, visiting Tanjung Pinang was often part of Joint Patrols or Diplomatic Goodwill Missions. Because the Riau Islands sit right at the mouth of the Singapore Strait and the South China Sea, the Royal Malaysian Navy and the Indonesian Navy (TNI-AL) have a long history of cooperation in these waters to combat piracy and ensure maritime security.

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

Lembah Keramat, K.L

25/12/2025: 12.21 a.m

MY TRAVEL INFO: 1987 - BELAWAN, MEDAN DAN DANAU TOBA

This photograph captures a nostalgic moment from November 1987, documenting a port visit by two Royal Malaysian Navy (RMN) vessels—KD Sri Negri Sembilan and KD Serampang—to Belawan, the primary seaport of Medan, Indonesia.

Such visits were significant milestones in the late 1980s, serving as "goodwill missions" to strengthen diplomatic ties and maritime cooperation between Malaysia and Indonesia following the earlier era of Confrontation (1963-1966).

Both vessels involved in the OSTEX 1987. OSTEX stands for Operational Sea Training Exercise 

Both vessels were part of the RMN's coastal defense fleet during that era:

• KD Sri Negri Sembilan (P3146): A Sabah-class patrol craft (also referred to as a Seaward Defence Motor Launch). It was a versatile vessel used for coastal surveillance and border protection.
• KD Serampang (P41): A Kris-class patrol craft built by Vosper Ltd. These ships were the workhorses of the Malaysian navy for decades, tasked with anti-piracy and coastal patrol duties.

Belawan was primarily known as the busy commercial port for Medan, which served as the economic and administrative capital of North Sumatera. 

Medan in 1987 was a vibrant, multicultural city known for its historical colonial architecture and culinary scene. 

DANAU TOBA, INDONESIA

Danau Toba (Lake Toba) is more than just a body of water; it is a massive geological wonder, a cultural heartland, and a place of deep myth. Since my visited in 1987, during a very specific era, but its foundation remains one of the most powerful stories on Earth.

Lake Toba is the site of a supervolcanic eruption that occurred roughly 74,000 years ago. It is the ancestral home of the Batak people. 

Lake Toba is widely considered "worth it," especially if you are looking for a destination that is affordable, culturally unique, and significantly more laid-back than Bali. It is the largest volcanic lake in the world, and most travelers find the scale and serenity of the landscape breathtaking.

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

Lembah Keramat, KL

25/12/2025: 12.00 a.m

MY TRAVEL INFO: 1985: MADRAS AND MAHABALIPURAM, INDIA

ANCHORED IN MADRAS: 1985 > 

A Naval Journey from the Decks of KD Mutiara to the Shores of the Pallavas

Those are photos captured in a nostalgic journey to South India in 1985, specifically to the city of Madras (now Chennai) and the historic town of Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram).

1. Madras (Chennai) in 1985

• The Alankar Theatre: One of my photos shows a vibrant street scene on Anna Salai (formerly Mount Road). The photo of a massive hand-painted hoarding for the Tamil film Nermai (1985), starring Sivaji Ganesan.
• A Cinematic Landmark: The Alankar Theatre was a famous landmark known for screening Western action films and Jackie Chan movies. It has since been demolished and replaced by a commercial complex (Prince Kushal Towers).
• The Streetscape: Your photos show the iconic LIC Building, which was once the tallest building in India, and the classic yellow-and-black Ambassador taxis that dominated the roads in the 80s.

A moment at the Hotel Tamilnadu Camping Site, it was the perfect home base for exploring the southern reaches of the city. 

2. Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram)

• The Shore Temple: The photo of the coastal temple captures the Shore Temple, a structural stone temple built in the 7th century during the Pallava dynasty.
• Historical Context: In 1985, this site was relatively newly recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (designated in 1984). You likely saw it before the heavy modern fencing and extensive tourism infrastructure were put in place.
• Monolithic Marvels: the photo documented the Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots), which are monolithic rock-cut structures carved from a single piece of granite.
• The photo of the monoliths, The Dharmaraja Ratha, the tallest, most elaborate structure with the Pyramid roof. It is the largest of the five and is famous for its intricate carvings of HIndu deities and its 3-storey design. 
• The Monolithic Elephant near the Nakula Sahadeva Ratha, a life-size elephant carved from a single rock. It is one of the most famous animal sculpture in the complex, representing the "vahana" (vehicle" of the god Indra. 

Unity across the seas, members of the KD Mutiara stand before the ancient stone spires, bringing the gap between modern maritime service and centuries old architectural wonder. 

3. The Royal Malaysian Navy Connection

KD Mutiara, which was a hydrographic survey ship of the Royal Malaysian Navy (RMN). The ship was commissioned in 1977 and was likely on a goodwill visit or a joint training exercise in India during 1985. It’s a wonderful piece of naval history showing the long-standing maritime relationship between Malaysia and India.

Seeing the Malaysian Flag and Ensign against the backdrop of Madras port was a powerful reminder of the deep maritime ties that bind our two nations across the Bay of Bengal.

INS ADYAR

The Headquarters of Flag Officer Commanding Tamilnadu and Puducherry Naval area. A moment of pride at INS Adyar, marking the intersection of duty and diplomacy in the heart of Madras".

"In 1985, the world felt vast, and the journey from the decks of the KD Mutiara to the historic streets of Madras felt like a voyage through time. These photographs capture a unique era: a time when INS Adyar served as our gateway to Indian hospitality, and the skyline was defined not by glass towers, but by the hand-painted dreams of cinema and the ancient granite spires of Mahabalipuram. Join me as I look back at a year of naval diplomacy and cultural discovery."

Tribute to the Crew

"Dedicated to the officers and crew of the KD Mutiara. To the brotherhood forged in salt and sweat, and to the shared horizons we navigated across the Bay of Bengal. May these photos serve as a compass back to a year of discovery."

 

Compiled by:

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

(Ex-Crew of KD Mutiara, 1985)

24/12/2025: 8.21 p.m

THE BUJANG VALLEY

The Bujang Valley (or Lembah Bujang) in Kedah is often described as the "Angkor Wat of Malaysia," though its ruins are much older and tell the story of a thriving Hindu-Buddhist maritime civilization that predates even the Great Pyramids of Southeast Asia.

If you were to visit today, here is what you would find:

1. The "Candis" (Temple Ruins)

While many of the 50+ identified sites are scattered or hidden in the jungle, several have been excavated and reconstructed for visitors.

• Candi Bukit Batu Pahat: This is the "crown jewel" of the valley. It is a 6th-to-12th-century granite temple dedicated to Shiva. It’s unique because it was built using stone from the nearby river, whereas most other temples in the area were made of brick or laterite.
• Relocated Temples: To protect them from development and the elements, several other ruins—like Candi Pendiat and Candi Pengkalan Bujang—were carefully moved from their original discovery spots and reassembled in a cluster near the museum.

2. The Sungai Batu Site

Recently, the focus has shifted to the Sungai Batu archaeological site, which is just a few kilometers away. This site has completely rewritten Malaysian history books.

• Oldest Civilization in SEA: Evidence of iron smelting and a ritual site there has been carbon-dated back to 788 BC, making it the oldest man-made structure in Southeast Asia—significantly older than Borobudur or Angkor Wat.
• The Ancient Jetty: You can see the remains of a massive brick jetty that once served as a bustling port for international traders from India and China.

3. The Archaeological Museum

The Lembah Bujang Archaeological Museum in Merbok acts as the gateway to these ruins.9 It houses a fascinating collection of:

• Inscribed Stone Caskets: Used to hold sacred relics or "seeds" of the temple.
• Trade Artifacts: Chinese ceramics, Indian beads, and Middle Eastern glassware that prove this was a global trade hub 2,000 years ago.
• Religious Statues: Beautifully preserved bronze and terracotta figures of Buddha and Hindu deities like Ganesha.

Visiting Info

• Location: Merbok, Kedah (at the foot of the majestic Mount Jerai, which served as a navigation landmark for ancient sailors).
• Entrance: Generally free, and it’s a very peaceful, uncrowded alternative to the more famous regional sites.

It is a hauntingly beautiful place where you can see the literal foundations of Malaysia’s ancient multicultural history.

Further reading:

1. Wikipedia : Bujang Valley
2. Malay Mail: Centuries-Old Temple ruins in Bujang Valley furtively destroyed
3. USM : Online News 

24/12/2025: 7.07 p.m

NANHAI TRADE (HAN SHU RECORD)

The records from the Han Shu (Book of Han), compiled in the 1st century AD, are indeed among the most significant historical documents for understanding early maritime contact between China and the Malay Peninsula.

The specific chronicle detailing this is found in the "Treatise on Geography" (Dilizhi), which describes a voyage commissioned during the reign of Emperor Wu of Han (r. 141–87 BC).

The Nanhai Trade Record (c. 140 BC)

The Han Shu describes a route starting from the Leizhou Peninsula (in modern-day Guangdong) and passing through various kingdoms in the "Southern Seas" (Nanhai). According to the text, Han officials traveled on foreign ships to acquire luxury goods.

• Key Commodities: The Chinese sought pearls, glass, rare stones, and exotic animals (notably rhinoceroses), while offering gold and silk in exchange.
• The Route: The ships sailed along the coast of Vietnam, crossed the Gulf of Thailand, and reached the Malay Peninsula.
• The Identification of "Huangzhi": The record mentions a kingdom called Huangzhi (黄支) as the furthest point. While some historians identify this as Kanchipuram in India, others suggest it refers to a polity on the Malay Peninsula or Sumatra.

Polities on the Peninsula: The text mentions several stops, including:

• Duyuan (都元): Often identified as a location on the east coast of the Malay Peninsula or Southern Thailand.
• Yilumo (邑盧沒): Suspected to be in the northern part of the peninsula.
• Pizong (皮宗): Frequently identified as Pulau Pisang (an island off the west coast of Johor, Malaysia).

Historical Significance

This record is vital for several reasons:

• Earliest Written Proof: It provides the earliest written evidence of organized maritime trade between the Chinese imperial court and the Malay Peninsula, predating the rise of later empires like Srivijaya by over 700 years.
• Multicultural Cooperation: The Han Shu explicitly mentions that the Han officials "traveled on ships of the barbarians," indicating that the actual navigation and seafaring were conducted by skilled Austronesian (Malay/Indonesian) or Indian sailors.
• The "Maritime Silk Road" Foundation: It proves that a "Maritime Silk Road" existed as a counterpart to the overland route even during the peak of the Han Dynasty's power.

Comparison of Early Records

Period	Source	Main Focus
c. 140 BC	Han Shu	Earliest mission to the "Southern Seas"; mentions trade for pearls and silk.
2nd Century AD	Ptolemy's Geographia	Western record mentioning the "Golden Chersonese" (Malay Peninsula).
3rd Century AD	Wei Lue	Mentions further stops and the role of intermediaries in the Malay/Sumatran region.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE

The archaeological evidence in Malaysia provides a physical "bridge" to the written accounts of the Han Shu. While the text describes officials traveling to the "Southern Seas" around 140 BC, archaeology shows that the Malay Peninsula was already a sophisticated "connector" in a global network involving Vietnam, India, and even the Roman Mediterranean.

1. The Dong Son Bells: The Link to Mainland Southeast Asia

The "Dong Son" culture (centered in modern-day North Vietnam) is famous for its advanced bronze-casting.1 In Malaysia, several Dong Son Bronze Bells and Drums have been discovered, dating roughly from 200 BC to 150 AD.

• Key Site - Klang, Selangor: Three bronze bells were found here in 1905.2 One of them (the "Klang Bell") is now in the British Museum and is decorated with double spirals and "eye" motifs typical of the Dong Son style.3
• Key Site - Kampung Pencu, Johor: A similar bell was found in 1963 near the Muar River.4 It is estimated to date back to 150 AD.5
• Significance: These bells were likely prestige items or ritual objects. Their presence suggests that as early as the Han Dynasty, there was a consistent maritime flow between the Vietnamese coast (where Han influence was strong) and the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula.

2. Roman and Indo-Pacific Beads: The Global Reach

The Han Shu mentions Han officials trading gold and silk for "rare stones." Archaeology in Malaysia reveals an astonishing variety of beads that confirm the peninsula's role as a "trans-shipment" hub.

• Roman Glass Beads: Found in sites like Kuala Selinsing (Perak) and Kota Tinggi (Johor), these beads originate from the Roman Mediterranean.They likely arrived via Indian intermediaries who traded with both the Romans and the people of the Malay Peninsula.
• Indo-Pacific Beads: These are small, monochrome glass beads. Research shows that while many came from Arikamedu (South India), sites like Sungai Mas (Kedah) were actually manufacturing their own beads as early as the 2nd century AD using imported techniques.
• Carnelian and Agate: High-quality stone beads from India have been found in Iron Age graves across the peninsula, proving that the trade routes mentioned by the Han were part of a larger "Maritime Silk Road" linking Rome, India, Southeast Asia, and China.

3. Early Iron and Gold: The "Suvarnabhumi" Connection

The Han Shu implies the peninsula was a source of wealth. This aligns with the ancient Sanskrit name for the region, Suvarnabhumi ("Land of Gold").

• Sungai Batu (Kedah): This is perhaps the most groundbreaking site. Excavations have revealed an iron-smelting industry dating back to 788 BC. By the time of the Han Dynasty (c. 140 BC), this was a highly developed industrial port.
• Significance: The discovery of ritual sites and administrative buildings at Sungai Batu proves that the "barbarians" the Han officials visited were actually part of a highly organized, technologically advanced society capable of mass-exporting iron.

Summary of Archaeological Correlates

These findings suggest that when the Han officials arrived, they weren't entering a "wilderness" but a thriving network of river-mouth polities that had been trading for centuries.

KUNLUN-BO

The "Kunlun" ships, referred to in Chinese records as Kunlun bo (崑崙舶), are some of the most fascinating vessels in maritime history. They were not Chinese ships, but were the massive, ocean-going vessels of the Austronesian peoples (the ancestors of the Malays and Indonesians).

Chinese records from the Han to the Tang Dynasties admit that for centuries, Chinese travelers—including diplomats and famous Buddhist monks like I-Tsing—relied almost entirely on these foreign ships to cross the "Southern Seas."

1. The Design: "Ships Without Nails"

The most striking feature of Kunlun ships to Chinese observers was their construction. While Chinese river craft used iron nails, the Kunlun bo used a "stitched-plank" or "lashed-lug" technique.

• Materials: Instead of iron, which was prone to rust and believed by some sailors to be "attracted to magnetic rocks" in the sea, the ships were held together by coconut fiber (coir) ropes and wooden dowels.
• Hull Integrity: The hulls were made of multiple layers of planks. Even without iron, they were incredibly flexible and could withstand the "dashing waves" of the open ocean better than the rigid Chinese river boats of that era.
• Waterproofing: They were sealed with dammar resin, a natural tree sap common in the Malay Archipelago.

2. Massive Scale and Capacity

Chinese accounts, such as those by the 3rd-century scholar Wan Chen in Strange Things of the South (Nanzhou Yiwuzhi), describe these ships in awe-inspiring terms:

• Size: They were reportedly over 50 to 60 meters long and stood 4 to 5 meters out of the water.
• Capacity: A single Kunlun bo could carry 600 to 1,000 people and up to 600–1,000 tons of cargo. For comparison, this was significantly larger than the ships used by Columbus over a millennium later.
• The "Covered Gallery" Look: From a distance, they were described as looking like floating "covered galleries" or palaces due to their high freeboards and multi-deck structures.

3. Sophisticated Rigging: The "Tanja" Sail

While many ships of the time used simple square sails, Kunlun ships utilized multi-masted systems (often 4 masts) with Tanja sails (canted rectangular sails).

• Tacking against the Wind: This rigging allowed the ships to sail even when the wind wasn't blowing directly behind them.
• Safety: The records note that because the sails were "oblique," they could be adjusted to let violent winds pass through, preventing the high masts from snapping during a storm.

4. Who were the "Kunlun"?

In ancient Chinese texts, "Kunlun" was a general term used for the dark-skinned, curly-haired peoples of the Southern Seas (Maritime Southeast Asia).

• The term "Kunlun bo" literally means "Ships of the Kunlun People."
• The word "Bo" (舶) itself is thought by many linguists to be a Chinese transcription of the Old Malay/Javanese word "Prahu" or "Parahu," which today still means "boat" (Perahu).

Why this matters for the Malay Peninsula

These records prove that the Malay Peninsula was not just a destination but a source of high-technology. The people of the peninsula and the surrounding islands were the "truck drivers" of the Maritime Silk Road. It wasn't until the Song Dynasty (around the 11th century AD) that the Chinese began building their own large-scale ocean-going "junks" that could rival the Kunlun ships they had admired for nearly a thousand years.

I-TSING - TANG DYNASTY MONK AT SRIVIJAYA

The story of the Tang Dynasty monk I-Tsing (also spelled Yijing) is the most vivid human account we have of the Malay Peninsula during the 7th century. While the Han Shu gives us a "satellite view" of early trade, I-Tsing gives us a "ground-level" diary of someone who actually lived there.

In 671 AD, I-Tsing set sail from Guangzhou on a Persian merchant ship. His journey was a maritime version of the famous pilgrimage of Xuanzang (the inspiration for Journey to the West).

1. Srivijaya: The Buddhist "Oxford" of the East

I-Tsing's first major stop was Shih-li-fo-shih (Srivijaya), located in modern-day Palembang, Sumatra.

• The Academic Hub: I-Tsing was stunned by the level of scholarship. He wrote that there were more than 1,000 Buddhist monks living there, studying the same curriculum as the famous Nalanda University in India.
• His Famous Advice: He famously wrote to other Chinese monks:

"If a Chinese priest wishes to go to the West [India] to hear and read, he had better stay here [Srivijaya] for one or two years and practice the proper rules... and then proceed to Central India."

• Language Learning: He spent six months in Srivijaya just learning Sanskrit and the local Malay language (which he referred to as "Kunlun-yu") before moving on.

2. Kedah (Chieh-cha): The Gateway to the West

After Srivijaya, I-Tsing traveled to Chieh-cha (Ancient Kedah) on the Malay Peninsula.

• Strategic Stopover: Kedah was the final "jumping-off point" before crossing the Bay of Bengal to India. Ships waited there for the monsoon winds to change.
• The Iron Connection: I-Tsing’s records align perfectly with the archaeology of Sungai Batu. He noted that travelers often traded local products for supplies; Arabic records of the same era (naming it Kalah) explicitly mention it as a world-renowned source of high-quality iron and tin.
• The Return Journey: On his way back from India in 685 AD, he stopped in Kedah again. He stayed in the region for several more years to translate the 500,000 Sanskrit stanzas he had collected.

3. The "Forgot My Ink" Incident

One of the most humanizing stories about I-Tsing happened in 689 AD. While living in Srivijaya (Palembang), he was busy translating a massive volume of texts but realized he had run out of paper and ink.

He went to the port to send a letter back to China asking for supplies. However, the ship was about to sail, and in a moment of panic/impulse, he stayed on the boat just to ensure his manuscripts were safe. He accidentally "shipped himself" back to China! He eventually recruited four assistants and sailed right back to Srivijaya to finish his work.

I-Tsing’s writings transformed our understanding of the Malay Peninsula from just a "trade stop" into a sophisticated "knowledge hub."

24/12/2025: 6.53 P.M

DUARTE BARBOSA ACCOUNTS OF MALACCA

In his 1516 work, A Description of the Coasts of East Africa and Malabar (often referred to as The Book of Duarte Barbosa), the Portuguese explorer Duarte Barbosa provided one of the most famous historical accounts of Malacca.

He described Malacca as a premier global hub, stating that it was:

"...the richest seaport with the greatest number of wholesale merchants and abundance of shipping and trade that can be found in the whole world."

Why was Malacca so wealthy?

According to Barbosa and other contemporary accounts (such as those by Tomé Pires), Malacca's status was driven by several key factors:

• Strategic Location: It sat at the narrowest point of the Strait of Malacca, serving as the "funnel" through which all trade between the Indian Ocean (the West) and the South China Sea (the East) had to pass.
• Monsoon Winds: Because of the seasonal winds, traders from India and Arabia would wait in Malacca for the winds to change before returning home, making it a natural warehouse and meeting point.
• Cosmopolitan Trade: Barbosa noted that the city was filled with merchants from all over the world, including Arabs, Persians, Gujaratis, Bengalis, Chinese, and Javanese.
• The Spice Monopoly: It was the primary collection point for "fine" spices—cloves, nutmeg, and mace—from the Maluku Islands (the Moluccas), which were then sold at massive markups to European and Middle Eastern markets.

The Famous Comparison

Barbosa’s colleague, Tomé Pires, famously echoed this sentiment by writing that Malacca was so vital that "whoever is lord of Malacca has his hand on the throat of Venice," referring to the fact that whoever controlled the port controlled the entire flow of wealth to the Mediterranean.

DESCRIPTION OF SULTAN PALACE

While Duarte Barbosa’s writings are famous for describing Malacca’s incredible wealth and trade, his specific descriptions of the Sultan’s palace are often grouped with those of his Portuguese contemporaries like Tomé Pires and the chronicler Gaspar Correia.

Barbosa and the Portuguese described the palace as a structure of immense scale and symbolic power. Here are the key details from the 16th-century Portuguese perspective:

1. Location and Scale

The palace was situated atop Bukit Melaka (now known as St. Paul's Hill), overlooking the river and the harbor. By placing the palace on the highest point, the Sultan could physically and symbolically look down upon the global trade flowing through his port. Barbosa notes that the Sultan lived in a "very large and grand house."

2. Architectural Grandeur

While Barbosa focused heavily on the trade, other contemporary Portuguese accounts (which likely informed his worldview) described the palace as:

• Built of Wood: It was constructed entirely of timber (primarily Chengal or teak) but on a massive scale.
• Gilded and Painted: The interior was described as being "all of gold and paint," with intricate carvings that featured floral and geometric patterns, reflecting the Islamic influence on Malay art.
• Tiered Roofs: The palace featured multiple steeply pitched roofs, layered to represent the hierarchy of the Sultanate.

3. The "Palace of Mansur Shah"

The most detailed descriptions often refer back to the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (mid-15th century). Historical records mention a legendary palace called the Istana Mahligai, which was said to have:

• Seven chambers.
• Roofing made of copper and zinc tiles that shone in the sun.
• A "Forbidden Garden" for the royal family.

4. The Palace as a Fortress

Barbosa observes that while the city itself lacked a stone wall before the Portuguese arrived, the palace complex served as the ultimate defensive stronghold. It was surrounded by sturdy wooden palisades (fences) and guarded by "countless" soldiers and specialized guards (often Javanese or Malay warriors) armed with spears and blowpipes.

Comparison: The Reconstructed Palace

If you visit Melaka today, there is a Cultural Museum that is a full-scale wooden replica of the palace based on these 16th-century descriptions and the Sejarah Melayu (Malay Annals). It was built entirely without nails, using traditional wooden pegs, to match the architectural style Barbosa and others would have seen.

24/12/2025: 3.17 P.M

CHARLES D. COWAN : MALAY SEAFARER

Charles Donald Cowan (C.D. Cowan) was a prominent historian of Southeast Asia and a former Director of the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS). His work, particularly his 1961 seminal book "Nineteenth-Century Malaya: The Origins of British Political Control," is a foundational text for understanding the transition from trade-based influence to formal British administration in the Malay Peninsula.

While Cowan is primarily known for his analysis of British policy, his work highlights the maritime nature of Malay society and the skill of Malay sailors in several ways:

1. The Strategic Importance of the Malay Seafarer

Cowan details how the British and Dutch East India Companies relied on the geographical and navigational knowledge of the Malays. Before the era of steam, sailing through the complex straits and island chains of Southeast Asia required an intimate understanding of:

• Monsoon Patterns: The "trade winds" governed all movement. Cowan notes that Malay sailors had mastered these cycles for centuries, facilitating trade between India, China, and the Archipelago.
• Archipelagic Navigation: Malay sailors (and the wider Austronesian group) were recognized for their ability to navigate shallow reefs and intricate river systems that larger European vessels often found treacherous.
• Regional Dominance: Cowan posits that the Malays' exceptional skill at sea gave them a significant advantage, allowing them to dominate the maritime trade routes of the Straits of Malacca and the wider Malay Archipelago.

2. "Piracy" as a Skilled Maritime Activity

A significant portion of Cowan’s research focuses on piracy in the 19th century, which the British used as a justification for intervention (such as the 1874 Pangkor Treaty). However, Cowan’s historical analysis subtly reveals that what the British labeled "piracy" was often a highly organized, skilled, and traditional form of Malay naval warfare and statecraft.

• Technological Adaptability: The Malay lanun (often from Sulu or the Riau-Lingga islands) used specialized vessels like the prahu (perahu), which were faster and more maneuverable than early European sailing ships in the calm, windless "doldrums" of the Straits.
• Economic Control: These "skilled sailors" weren't just marauders; they were enforcers of local monopolies, showing a sophisticated understanding of maritime trade routes.

3. The Impact of the Steamship

Cowan argues that the decline of the traditional Malay sailor's dominance coincided with the advent of the steam engine. Unlike sailing ships, steamships could ignore the monsoons and navigate against currents, effectively stripping the Malay seafarers of their competitive advantage—their deep, specialized knowledge of the winds and tides.

Key Works by C.D. Cowan

If you are looking for specific quotes or deep-dives into his views on Malay maritime history, these are the primary sources:

• Nineteenth-Century Malaya: The Origins of British Political Control (1961)
• Sir Frank Swettenham's Malayan Journals, 1874-1876 (Edited with P.L. Burns)
• South East Asian History: A Bibliographical Guide

HIS SPECIFIC CRITIQUES OF THE "PIRACY" LABEL.

Charles Donald Cowan (C.D. Cowan) is credited with shifting the historical perspective of Malay "piracy" from a moralistic or criminal one to a political and economic one. In his seminal work, Nineteenth-Century Malaya: The Origins of British Political Control (1961), he provides several nuanced critiques of the label.

His core argument is that the term "piracy" was a simplified—and often self-serving—Western label for what were actually complex indigenous maritime activities.

1. Piracy as "Traditional Naval Warfare"

Cowan argued that much of what the British called piracy was actually the exercise of traditional Malay sovereignty. In the Malay world, a Sultan or chief’s power was measured by his ability to control trade routes.

• Enforcement of Rights: He noted that maritime raiding was a recognized tool of statecraft. A chief who attacked a vessel was often not a "criminal" but was enforcing his right to levy tolls or punishing a trader for bypassing his port.
• Political Loyalty: Cowan highlighted that many "pirates" were loyal subjects of local rulers (like the Temenggong of Johor or the Sultans of Riau), acting as a paramilitary force to protect the state’s economic interests.

2. The Label as a "Political Tool" for Intervention

One of Cowan's most significant critiques is how the British used the "piracy" label to justify breaking their own policy of non-intervention.

• Creating a Casus Belli: Cowan demonstrated that when the British wanted to intervene in a Malay state for economic reasons (such as tin mining interests), they often cited the need to "suppress piracy" as a legal and moral justification to the Home Government in London.
• A Shift in Definitions: He pointed out that maritime activities that had been tolerated for decades were suddenly re-labeled as "unbearable piracy" precisely when British commercial interests in the Malay interior became more valuable.

3. Economic Displacement as a Cause

Cowan critiqued the idea that Malays were "naturally" prone to piracy. Instead, he linked the rise in maritime raiding to the economic disruption caused by European powers.

• Loss of Legitimate Trade: As the British (Singapore/Penang) and Dutch (Java) established monopolies and drew trade away from traditional Malay entrepôts, local chiefs lost their primary source of income.
• Reaction to Colonialism: Raiding became a desperate economic alternative for skilled sailors who had been sidelined by European steamships and trade restrictions. Cowan viewed this not as "lawlessness" but as a reaction to the crumbling of the traditional Malay maritime economy.

4. Technical Skill vs. Criminality

While the British portrayed pirates as chaotic marauders, Cowan’s research highlighted their sophistication.

• He noted that Malay lanun (often from the Sulu or Illanun groups) operated with highly specialized fleets and displayed naval discipline that rivaled European navies of the time.
• By focusing on their skills, Cowan shifted the narrative from "thugs at sea" to "specialized maritime professionals" whose expertise was simply at odds with the emerging British legal order.

Summary of Cowan's View

Cowan’s critique boils down to the idea that "One man’s pirate is another man’s coast guard." He was among the first "revisionist" historians to suggest that the 19th-century "War on Piracy" was less about safety at sea and more about the British Empire clearing the way for a new, Western-dominated economic system.

Traditional Malay Vessels
Malay sailors utilized a wide range of craft, from small racing boats to massive ocean-going ships. 

• Jong (Junk): These large, multi-masted merchant vessels could reach 1,400 deadweight tons and carry up to 1,000 people. They featured hybrid designs with modular construction and specialized balance-lug sails.
• Bedar: A highly seaworthy, junk-rigged vessel often built in Terengganu using indigenous carvel construction (edge-on-edge planking without plans).
• Pinas: Another "Perahu Besar" (big boat) of Terengganu, influenced by Western schooners but retaining traditional Malay features like the use of Chengal wood.
• Sampan Panjang: A 19th-century fast boat used by the Orang Laut (sea people) for racing and transport, often outperforming European yachts.
• Perahu Payang: An open fishing boat common on the east coast, typically carrying 13–14 oarsmen and two rectangular sails.

British Maritime and Political Shift (Post-1874)
The 1874 Pangkor Treaty marked a transition from indirect trade protection to formal territorial administration. 

• The Residency System: The treaty mandated that the Sultan of Perak accept a British Resident whose "advice must be asked and acted upon" for all matters except religion and custom.
• Control of Revenue: Clause X of the treaty gave the British direct control over the collection and regulation of all revenues, effectively ending the traditional Malay kerajaan economics system based on royal monopolies.
• Suppressing Piracy: British authority was used to "legitimize" the suppression of independent Malay maritime activity, reclassifying traditional naval control by Malay chiefs as piracy to ensure safe routes for European and Straits Chinese merchants.
• Technological Displacement: British steam-powered gunboats gradually neutralized the maneuverability advantage of traditional Malay vessels, leading to a decline in local merchant shipping as trade shifted to larger deep-water ports like Singapore.

24/12/2025: 1.41 p.m

ANTONIO PIGAFETTA - ENRIQUE THE BLACK

The relationship between Antonio Pigafetta and Enrique of Malacca (often called "Enrique the Black") is one of the most significant links in the history of the first circumnavigation of the world.

Pigafetta was the expedition's chronicler, while Enrique was the interpreter whose ability to speak with the locals proved that the world was indeed round.

The Chronicler and the Interpreter

Antonio Pigafetta was an Italian scholar who joined Ferdinand Magellan’s 1519 expedition as a volunteer. Because of his detailed journal, we have almost all our knowledge regarding Enrique, a man Magellan had enslaved in Malacca in 1511.

1. The Moment of Discovery

The most famous moment involving the two occurred in March 1521. When the ships reached the island of Limasawa (in the modern-day Philippines), Enrique spoke to the locals and found they understood him perfectly.

• Significance: This was the "linguistic circumnavigation." It proved the fleet had reached the East by sailing West.
• Pigafetta’s Record: Pigafetta noted that Enrique spoke a form of Malay, which was the lingua franca of trade in the region.

2. A Collaborative Effort

Historians believe Enrique was more than just a subject of Pigafetta’s writing; he was likely a collaborator.

• Pigafetta compiled a glossary of local words (one of the first recorded lists of Cebuano/Visayan and Malay).
• Pigafetta was a meticulous record-keeper. During his time with Enrique, he compiled a list of over 400 Malay words (which he called "Moorish") and a significant glossary Cebuan / Visayan words. 
• Since Enrique was from Sumatra/Malacca, he helped Pigafetta translate the lingua franca of the regional trade. Pigafetta's Malay list is one of the earliest Malay-European dictionaries. 
• Modern linguists suggest Pigafetta relied heavily on Enrique to translate these terms and cultural nuances.

3. Tension and the Final Act

After Magellan was killed in the Battle of Mactan (1521), their relationship took a dark turn.

• The Betrayal: Magellan’s will stated that Enrique should be freed upon his death. However, the new commanders refused to honor this.
• Pigafetta's Account: Pigafetta records that a bitter Enrique conspired with the local ruler, Rajah Humabon, leading to a massacre of the Spanish officers at a banquet.
• The End: Enrique survived the massacre and disappeared from the historical record. Pigafetta was one of the few who escaped back to the ships and eventually made it to Spain.

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Comparison of Roles

Feature	Antonio Pigafetta	Enrique of Malacca
Origin	Vicenza, Italy	Sumatra or Malacca (likely)
Status	Scholar / Volunteer	Enslaved Interpreter
Fate	Returned to Spain; wrote the chronicle	Disappeared in the Philippines
Claim to Fame	Documented the first circumnavigation	Potentially the first person to actually circle the globe

Was Enrique the First to Circumnavigate?

While Juan Sebastián Elcano and the crew of the Victoria are officially credited as the first to return to their starting point in Spain, many historians argue Enrique has a stronger claim.

Because Enrique traveled from Malacca to Europe (1511) and then from Europe back to the Malay-speaking world (1521), he had completed a full circle of the earth's longitudes a year before the Spanish survivors did.

24/12/2025: 11.04 A.M

DAMIAO DE GOIS - DESCRIPTION OF MALACCA

It appears you are referring to the writings of Damião de Góis (1502–1574), a renowned Portuguese humanist and historian, regarding the Sultanate of Melaka (Malacca) during the 16th century.

De Góis was the official chronicler for King Manuel I of Portugal.1 In his work Crónica do Felicíssimo Rei D. Manuel, he documented the Portuguese expansion and famously described Melaka's immense wealth and strategic importance.

The Quote and Context

While "richest city in the world" is a common modern paraphrase of his sentiments, Damião de Góis and his contemporaries (like Tomé Pires and Afonso de Albuquerque) described Melaka in terms that suggested it was the center of global commerce.

De Góis emphasized that:

• Global Crossroads: He viewed Melaka as the "end of one world and the beginning of another," where the riches of the East (spices, silks, and porcelain) met the traders of the West.
• The "Venice of the East": He often compared the scale of its trade to Venice, noting that the sheer volume of gold and precious goods flowing through the port was unparalleled.
• The Famous Maxim: A similar sentiment often attributed to the era's chronicles (specifically Tomé Pires in the Suma Oriental) says:"Whoever is lord of Malacca has his hand on the throat of Venice."

Why was Melaka so rich?

According to the accounts of De Góis and other 16th-century Portuguese writers, Melaka’s wealth was built on three pillars:

1. Strategic Location: Situated at the narrowest point of the Melaka Straits, it was the mandatory stopping point for ships traveling between India, China, and the Spice Islands (Moluccas).
2. Monopoly on Spices: At the time, cloves, nutmeg, and mace were worth their weight in gold in Europe. Melaka was the primary emporium for these goods.
3. Cosmopolitan Trade: De Góis noted that over 80 languages were spoken in the city, and it hosted merchant communities from Arabia, Persia, India, China, and Japan.

Historical Perspective

Damião de Góis’s descriptions helped cement Melaka's reputation in Europe as a "golden" city. However, his accounts were also used to justify the Portuguese conquest of 1511, framing the city as a prize so valuable that the Portuguese Empire had to secure it to control the global spice trade.

In the Crónica do Felicíssimo Rei D. Manuel (Part III, Chapters 24–28), Damião de Góis provides a vivid account of the Fall of Melaka in 1511. While he writes as a formal historian, his descriptions of the "spoils of war" emphasize the city's status as a global treasury.

The specific passage detailing the treasures found after the second and final assault on August 24, 1511, highlights three main categories: Artillery, Gold/Jewels, and Royal Regalia.

1. The Vast Artillery (The "Iron" Treasure)

De Góis expresses astonishment at the sheer number of bronze and iron cannons captured. He notes that the Portuguese seized 3,000 pieces of artillery, of which 2,000 were bronze. He specifically mentions:

"Among these were many large pieces of such beautiful workmanship that they could not be surpassed even in the foundries of Europe."

He recounts that one particular gun, sent as a gift to King Manuel, was so large that it required a special ship to transport it, though it was tragically lost when the ship Flor de la Mar sank.

2. Gold, Jewels, and the Sultan’s Wealth

The chronicle describes the looting of the Sultan’s palace and the homes of the wealthy Gujarati and Chinese merchants. De Góis details:

• The Golden Palanquin: A magnificent royal litter (palanquin) decorated with gold and precious stones belonging to Sultan Mahmud Shah.
• Gold and Coinage: He mentions vast quantities of gold "in dust and bars," as well as silver and the local tin coinage (caixas).
• The Sultan’s Throne: He describes a throne encrusted with jewels and gold, which the Portuguese saw as a symbol of the "pagan" wealth of the East.

3. The Royal Lions

A unique detail in De Góis’s account is the mention of two lions made of gold with eyes made of precious stones, found in the Sultan’s palace. These were intended to be sent to Lisbon as a trophy for the King, but like many of the treasures, they are believed to have been lost at sea during the return voyage of Afonso de Albuquerque.

The "Flor de la Mar" Disaster

It is important to note that De Góis concludes this section with a somber tone. He explains that despite the immense riches gathered—which he estimated to be worth millions of cruzados—the vast majority never reached Portugal. The ship Flor de la Mar, carrying the "lion's share" of the treasure (including the Sultan’s gold, the jewelry of the merchant queens, and the ornate artillery), struck a reef off the coast of Sumatra and sank, making it one of the most famous lost shipwrecks in history.

Summary Quote

Though the original text is in 16th-century Portuguese, De Góis summarizes the conquest by saying:

"No city in the world could compare to Melaka in the variety of its riches, for here was gathered all that the Earth produced from the Pillars of Hercules to the shores of China."

24/12/2025: 10.52 A.M