KD Lekir memasuki Pelabuhan Tg.Perak , Surabaya, Indonesia
By Hj Zulheimy Maamor - Navy Veteran
A personal memoir of my services aboard KD Lekir and our voyage to the Indonesian archipelago in 1989, 1990 and 1991. More than just a naval deployment, it was a journey of tradition, history and human connection.
1. Naval Tradition: Crossing the Equator
For any sailor, crossing the equator is more than a line on a chart. It is a time-honored maritime rite of passage.
Every crew member of KD Lekir who successfully crossed the Earth's equator was awarded a formal "Crossing the Equator" certificate. In naval tradition, this ceremony marks the transformation of a sailor from a "pollywog" - an untried sailor - to a "Shellback", an experienced mariner who has earned his place at sea.
2. Port of Call Profile: Surabaya, East Java
Surabaya was a primary destination for KD Lekir during the late 1980s and early 1990s. We made three distinct visits to this port while I was stationed aboard KD Lekir.
1989 - Maiden voyage to Surabaya
1990 - second deployment
1991 - on our return voyage from Australia and New Zealand.
Surabaya left a deep impression. As the capital of East Java Province, it is Indonesia's second-largest city and is revered as Kota Pahlawan — the City of Heroes — for the fierce struggle of its people against colonial forces to secure Indonesian independence.
We berthed at Tanjung Perak Port, the second busiest port in Indonesia after Tanjung Priok in Jakarta. It is the vital maritime hub that connects Surabaya to the rest of the archipelago. Right next to it lies Ujung Port, the dedicated ferry terminal for crossings to Madura Island.
One of my most memorable personal memories from Tanjung Perak was not about the port itself, but the people. Just outside the main entrance gates, a local family ran a small food stall. I met the same young girl there in 1989 and again in 1991. To see her growth over two years was a beautiful time capsule — a reminder that deployments are not just about ships and ports, but about the human connections sailors make ashore.
During shore leave, we had the opportunity to visit some of Surabaya's most significant sites.
Sunan Ampel Mosque & Tomb
This is a major spiritual landmark. The complex is dedicated to Sunan Ampel (Raden Achmad Rachmatulloh), the highly revered Islamic scholar who passed away in 1481 and was entrusted by the King of Majapahit to spread Islamic teachings in the region then known as Ampel Dento.
Makan Sunan Ampel, Surabaya
The mosque, built in 1421 AD by Sunan Ampel and his followers, is the second-largest mosque in Surabaya. Its architecture is a striking fusion of ancient Javanese design and Arab-Islamic nuances. Most significant are the five unique Gapuro (gateways), which symbolise the Five Pillars of Islam, the Rukun Islam.
Tunjungan Plaza - the modern high-end, urban entertainment.
5. Cultural Touchstones: The Tanjung Perak Song
The sights of Tanjung Perak Port frequently evoke nostalgia for a popular 1970s Indonesian Kroncong song. The lyrics highlight the vibrant, communal social life of Surabaya's coast:
"Tanjung perak tepi laut >
Siapa suka boleh ikut >
Bawa gitar keroncong piul >
Jangan lupa bawa anggur..."
4. Other Regional Deployments
Tanjung Pinang, Riau Islands (June 1990)
Located south of Bintan Island and close to Singapore, Tanjung Pinang is the capital of the Kepulauan Riau province. It functions as a crucial port linking the islands.
Historically, this city was the geopolitical centre of the Malay world some 500 years ago. After the Portuguese attack on Malacca in 1511, Sultan Mahmud Shah retreated here to seek refuge.
Standing there, you feel the weight of our shared Malay history.
Gunung Daik bercabang Tiga: the legendary 3-peaked mountain in Lingga, Riau Islands. For 500 years, this mountain has been the compass and soul of the Malay world. Sailors navigating from Malacca to Johor-Riau would use Gunung as their landmark.
And the Pantun on the photo is the most famous pantun in the Malay world:
"Pulau Pandan jauh ke tengah
Gunung Daik bercabang tiga
Hancur badan dikandung tanah
Budi yang baik di kenang juga."
Meaning that even when our body is gone, good deeds will always be remembered. Very fitting for a veteran's memoir.
An earlier deployment in my naval career, this was during my service aboard KD Sri Negeri Sembilan, before my posting to KD Lekir.
KD Sri Negri Sembilan together with sister ship KD Serampang after completing Operational Sea Training Exercise in the Straits of Malacca with Tentera Nasionalis Indonesia - Angkatan Laut.
Port Belawan, about 24 km from Medan, the capital of North Sumatra. We has a chance for a trip to Danau Toba, the largest lake in Indonesia, home of the Batak Tribe.
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